Growling is a normal form of doggie communication. Growling, along with body language and other vocalizations, gives us a view into the doggie psyche, into what's going on in a dog's brain. In this article, we're going to dissect a growl - what does it mean, what should you do?
What is A Growl?
Dogs can't use words to communicate, so they rely on body language and vocalizations (growls, barks, and whines, to name a few) to "have conversations." Dogs converse with other dogs, as well as with people with these vocalizations. To really understand your dog, you have to know what growling does - and does not - mean.
Why Do Dogs Growl?
Not all growls are created equal. To decipher the meaning of a growl, we need to find out why the dog is growling. There are many reasons dogs growl - when playing, dreaming, protecting something of value, if they feel threatened, or scared.
What Does A Growl Mean?
Dog-to-Dog Growls
As mentioned earlier, it's important to take into consideration the context in which your dog is growling. Remember, dogs don't have words. They can only use their body language and vocalizations to communicate with their dog friends. Growling is one way dogs communicate with one another. Sometimes dogs growl when they are playing happily with another dog-friend.
Wondering how to tell the difference between a serious and a playful growl? Take a look at the dog's bodies. Do you see the following?
* "Loose" bodies (not rigid and stiff)
* Mutual playing (both dogs are content to play together, neither one looks scared or threatened)
* Willingness to continue playing together (if one gets the chance to leave, does he?)
* Cooperative play (dogs take turns "winning" or pinning each other)
If you see these things, the dogs are most likely engaging in normal dog-play. If either dog looks scared, looks like they are bullying the other dog, or moves stiffly, it's time to interrupt play-time and let them settle down before allowing them to play again.
Dogs also growl to communicate their uneasiness. Your dog may growl at another dog if that dog is:
* Unfamiliar
* Too close to a valued object
* Behaving inappropriately (jumping on your dog, for instance)
* Crowding your dog's space
Dog-to-Human Growls
Much like dog-to-dog growling, dogs have different reasons for growling at humans. Some dogs growl playfully when interacting with humans. Other dogs growl at children, or men with hats, or some other elusive reason. Again, look at the context in which the growling happens - what does the dog's body language tell you? Is he stiff or floppy?
What NOT To Do If Your Dog Growls
Knowing there are different reasons behind your dogs' growls, it's important to pay attention to the situation before deciding what to do with a growl. If the growl is playful, you probably don't have to do anything about it, unless the growling bothers you. If you think the growl is more serious, it's important to proceed with caution.
A growl is a good, clear warning signal and one that we should heed. The dog is clearly telling us that he's not comfortable with the situation. The most important thing to note is that a growl is information. Punishing the dog for growling will not fix the problem. Punishing a growl will only take that form of communication away from your dog. The next time your dog is in the same situation, he will try a different form of communication - this time he may snarl or even snap. If you punish this form of communication, you'll have a dog that bites without warning.
Forcing your dog to tolerate a situation that makes him uncomfortable is a recipe for disaster. By doing this, you are giving the dog no option to get out of the situation. If, for example, your dog is uncomfortable around small children and you hold your dog's collar while allowing children to approach your dog, you aren't helping alleviate your dog's discomfort. You are actually contributing to the discomfort which could lead to a snarl, snap, or a bite. What to Do
If Your Dog Growls
Your first order of business is to determine what makes your dog uncomfortable in the situation. Is it the presence of small children surrounding him, another dog near a prized possession? Is he scared? Does he feel threatened? Once you know why your dog is uncomfortable, you can then do something about hearing his "call of distress" and do something to help him.
Here are some basic steps to follow. Please note that if you are afraid that your dog will bite, consult a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer and do not proceed with the following steps.
In this example let's assume the dog is growling when you approach his food bowl.
1. Begin to hand feed your dog his meals. No more food in the bowl. If there isn't food in the bowl, he's much less likely to "guard" the bowl. Bonus: And it's you that gives the dog the food. Therefore you become an important and welcome link to the food.
2. After your dog is eagerly accepting his food from your hand, begin to re-introduce the food bowl. Put the food bowl in your lap and drop three or four pieces of your dog's food in the bowl. When he finishes those kibbles, drop three or four more in. Continue this until the dog's entire meal has been eaten.
3. Once your dog is looking forward to your hand moving to his empty bowl to add more food, reserve an extra special treat (chicken, steak, fish - something REALLY delicious that he doesn't normally get). Put five to ten pieces of food in his bowl and while he's eating, drop in this delicious morsel. Your dog is learning that really good things happen when your hand moves toward his bowl.
4. If your dog readily accepts your hand approaching his bowl when he has a few kibbles in it, begin putting more kibble
in his bowl and then adding a delicious morsel every few moments.
Note: This process could take days, weeks, or months depending on your dog. Don't rush these steps. If you are afraid that your dog will bite, DO NOT engage in this process. Find a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer.
By following these steps, you are solving the underlying problem (the dog's dislike of approaching people) instead of just getting rid of his warning system. If, instead of implementing the steps above, you punished your dog for growling (by yelling or swatting at him, or taking his food bowl away), you are doing two things: (1) reinforcing his belief that people who approach his food bowl are dangerous and (2) getting rid of a perfectly good warning system. You are not, I repeat NOT, fixing the underlying problem.
Dogs can't use words. It is up to each of us to listen to our dogs and try our best to decipher their language. Not all growls are created equal - know your dog. We expect dogs to listen to us, isn't it time we start listening to them?
Laurie Luck, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
Smart Dog University, LLC
Box 1111
Mount Airy, MD 21771
(240) 848-3468
laurie@smartdoguniversity.com
http://www.SmartDogUniversity.com
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems
You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!
You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.
Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.
Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.
1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:
- Don't let him pull on his leash.
- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.
- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.
- Always eat before he does.
- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.
- Don't allow him to bite anyone.
- Always go through doorways before him.
- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.
- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.
- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.
- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.
When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!
2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.
3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.
4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.
Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.
5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection
6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.
If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.
Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:
- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for
recommendations.
- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.
- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.
- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.
- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.
- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.
- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.
- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.
Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.
7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.
8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!
If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.
If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.
Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.
Marilyn Burnham
Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training
Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’ The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Burnham
You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.
Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.
Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.
1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:
- Don't let him pull on his leash.
- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.
- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.
- Always eat before he does.
- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.
- Don't allow him to bite anyone.
- Always go through doorways before him.
- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.
- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.
- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.
- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.
When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!
2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.
3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.
4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.
Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.
5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection
6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.
If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.
Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:
- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for
recommendations.
- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.
- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.
- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.
- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.
- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.
- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.
- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.
Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.
7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.
8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!
If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.
If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.
Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.
Marilyn Burnham
Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training
Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’ The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Burnham
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Raw Bones Promote Dental Health
Raw Bones for Pet Health
The old expression reigns true: "For goodness sake give your dog a bone!"
Studies have shown that 85% of dogs and 70% of cats over age three have gingivitis. [1]
The resulting infections from advancing periodontal disease can enter the blood stream and affect internal organs including the heart, liver and kidneys. What's more, just as with humans, poor dental hygiene and its consequences have significant effects on life quality and span. [2]
Recreational bone chewing provides a natural mechanism for cleaning teeth while satisfying the urge to chew. Raw bones, tendons and other raw meaty bones come in all shapes and sizes for all dogs in size ranging from miniature to giant breeds.
One important note to mention regarding raw bones is that they must be given raw! Boiling or broiling bones causes them to become dry and brittle, allowing them to splinter and increasing the risk of intestinal perforations or blockages. Raw bones are alive with strong nutritional value that cooking would alter and destroy. Raw bones are loaded with natural vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids that contribute to good health.
The grinding action of bones provides a scraping action on teeth while tendons and cartilage act as a natural dental floss.
There is also a misconception out there that dry kibble is effective at cleaning teeth. Certainly we can agree that dry kibble causes more abrasion than a canned food would, but think of it this way, would crunching on chips everyday keep your teeth clean? Certainly not! What happens when you eat a cookie? When the starches present become wet, they become sticky and get trapped between your teeth and under your gumline. Gingivitis and periodontal disease all begin under the gum line.
Some "oral care" dry foods add fillers like cellulose, decrease starches and add mineral analogues to help, but it is not enough. When wild canines and felines eat raw prey, they rip and tear at the flesh, grind bone, chew cartilage and tendons - these naturally provide a cleaning action. And more importantly, their natural diet contains no starches or sugar. Since the move away from a natural diet by the introduction of dry kibble and canned food 70 years ago, the incidence of general, and oral health problems have skyrocketed.
If you are new to raw meaty bones, now is a great time to start! You will be surprised at how much poochy enjoys them! They are extremely healthy too, and are critical to replace nutrients otherwise not present in dried processed foods.
Some general guidelines to follow include:
- Choose appropriate sized pieces according to your dogs size.
- Avoid chicken necks if your dog has a tendency to swallow pieces whole.
- Weight bearing bones such as femurs or knuckles can be very hard and dense. Alternatives to these include ribs, necks, tendons, chicken wings and backs.
- And as with any chew just be sure to keep a supervised eye on poochy. Likewise take away any that become small enough to swallow or break apart.
An exerpt from Veterinarian Tom Lonsdale's website, www.rawmeatybones.com on a comment by Dr. Tom Hungerford:
'Rightly or wrongly, I regard the feeding of raw bones daily as being one critical factor in the health of dogs. Why is this? The crunching of the bones may clean the teeth. The enormous dental pressures of crunching bones may cause great circulatory changes in the jaws and gums. The primitive euphoria generated by the crunching of bones is obvious. To tease my dogs and take away their food is nothing, but to tease them and take away the bones causes a very definite reaction. The canine joy of crunching up bones is a daily feature of exhilaration and well-being which may have a bearing upon their immuno-competence and their immune system.' [2]
References
[1]. http://www.bluecrossah.com/pages/dental.php
[2]. http://rawmeatybones.com/PrevDent.html
About the Author
http://optimalpetfoods.wordpress.com
The old expression reigns true: "For goodness sake give your dog a bone!"
Studies have shown that 85% of dogs and 70% of cats over age three have gingivitis. [1]
The resulting infections from advancing periodontal disease can enter the blood stream and affect internal organs including the heart, liver and kidneys. What's more, just as with humans, poor dental hygiene and its consequences have significant effects on life quality and span. [2]
Recreational bone chewing provides a natural mechanism for cleaning teeth while satisfying the urge to chew. Raw bones, tendons and other raw meaty bones come in all shapes and sizes for all dogs in size ranging from miniature to giant breeds.
One important note to mention regarding raw bones is that they must be given raw! Boiling or broiling bones causes them to become dry and brittle, allowing them to splinter and increasing the risk of intestinal perforations or blockages. Raw bones are alive with strong nutritional value that cooking would alter and destroy. Raw bones are loaded with natural vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids that contribute to good health.
The grinding action of bones provides a scraping action on teeth while tendons and cartilage act as a natural dental floss.
There is also a misconception out there that dry kibble is effective at cleaning teeth. Certainly we can agree that dry kibble causes more abrasion than a canned food would, but think of it this way, would crunching on chips everyday keep your teeth clean? Certainly not! What happens when you eat a cookie? When the starches present become wet, they become sticky and get trapped between your teeth and under your gumline. Gingivitis and periodontal disease all begin under the gum line.
Some "oral care" dry foods add fillers like cellulose, decrease starches and add mineral analogues to help, but it is not enough. When wild canines and felines eat raw prey, they rip and tear at the flesh, grind bone, chew cartilage and tendons - these naturally provide a cleaning action. And more importantly, their natural diet contains no starches or sugar. Since the move away from a natural diet by the introduction of dry kibble and canned food 70 years ago, the incidence of general, and oral health problems have skyrocketed.
If you are new to raw meaty bones, now is a great time to start! You will be surprised at how much poochy enjoys them! They are extremely healthy too, and are critical to replace nutrients otherwise not present in dried processed foods.
Some general guidelines to follow include:
- Choose appropriate sized pieces according to your dogs size.
- Avoid chicken necks if your dog has a tendency to swallow pieces whole.
- Weight bearing bones such as femurs or knuckles can be very hard and dense. Alternatives to these include ribs, necks, tendons, chicken wings and backs.
- And as with any chew just be sure to keep a supervised eye on poochy. Likewise take away any that become small enough to swallow or break apart.
An exerpt from Veterinarian Tom Lonsdale's website, www.rawmeatybones.com on a comment by Dr. Tom Hungerford:
'Rightly or wrongly, I regard the feeding of raw bones daily as being one critical factor in the health of dogs. Why is this? The crunching of the bones may clean the teeth. The enormous dental pressures of crunching bones may cause great circulatory changes in the jaws and gums. The primitive euphoria generated by the crunching of bones is obvious. To tease my dogs and take away their food is nothing, but to tease them and take away the bones causes a very definite reaction. The canine joy of crunching up bones is a daily feature of exhilaration and well-being which may have a bearing upon their immuno-competence and their immune system.' [2]
References
[1]. http://www.bluecrossah.com/pages/dental.php
[2]. http://rawmeatybones.com/PrevDent.html
About the Author
http://optimalpetfoods.wordpress.com
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs
Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life,
(FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".
Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.
There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?
Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.
Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.
Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding.
Not money or accolades!
Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.
The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.
You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.
Distance Learning
To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.
Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.
Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.
Play or Training Therapy
There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blasé and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.
Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.
Focused Attention
One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem.
This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.
You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:
To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.
When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.
What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.
Punishment is not an Option
It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.
Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?
Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.
Obedience Classes?
Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.
Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.
If the dog has any tendency to snap at dogs or people or to bark inappropriately, a head Halter or Halti can be an excellent safeguard that helps to eliminate this habit without introducing new problems. Have a trainer or behaviour specialist help you fit the halter/halti. Use your focused attention exercise to keep the dog's mind off the Halter/Halti. Be sure to remove the head halter at all times except when you are actively working the dog. Don't use a long line with a head halter, because you could put a dangerous amount of force against the neck.
What Other Treatments Could Help?
Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.
To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option ,especially with the fearful phobic dog
If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.
These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc;
o Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet
o Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet
o D.A.P Diffusers: In mammals all lactating females release substances which are called appeasing pheromones, the function is to reassure and calm their offspring, In the bitch these are produced 3-5 days post whelping by the sebaceous glands of the belly near the milk glands.
They are believed to enhance attachment between mother and pups and to reassure and comfort. As the pup explores its new environment it will come across new stimuli which set off emotional reactions and stresses.
The pup reacts by looking for mum with her reassuring odour which stabilises its emotional state. Research has shown that these reassuring properties last well into adulthood. They appear to modulate both emotional state and social interaction throughout the dog's life. The DAP Diffuser standing for Dog Appeasing Pheromone Diffuser is a chemical mimic of the mothers natural pheromone and is supplied in spray and plug in varieties. I prefer the plug in as it has a culminative effect constantly seeding the area with calming smells.
Available Vet or Internet or Me
o Anxiety: Promotes a sense of calm in animals exhibiting fretting, fear, anxiety or any unwanted behaviour caused by: thunderstorms, fireworks, travel, being left alone, vet and grooming visits. 100% natural organic non-sedating liquid. Safe for cats, kittens, dogs, puppies, birds, rabbits, and ferrets.
Dosage: Once in the morning, evening and bedtime, into mouth or in water. Under 20 lbs.: 5 drops, 20-100 lbs.:10 drops, over 100 lbs.:15 drops. Reduce dosage with improvement, repeat with flare up.
o Prozac: Mainstream controlled drug and only available from your Veterinarian. Originally developed for humans, the controversial antidepressant is now being prescribed by veterinarians for dogs suffering from a variety of emotional disorders.
This is sometimes used in cases of depression, aggression panic attacks and serious phobic responses. The drug is believed to work in the same way as it does in humans by altering the uptake of the brain chemical serotonin. Scientists hope the drug will cut the number of dog attacks and lead to fewer animals being destroyed, normally used with a tapering program of drug treatment
Available Vet only
With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication homeopathic or otherwise with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program
Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions
© Stan Rawlinson Telephone: 0208 979 2019 Mobile Number: 07976 153161 E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk web site http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
(FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".
Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.
There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?
Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.
Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.
Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding.
Not money or accolades!
Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.
The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.
You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.
Distance Learning
To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.
Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.
Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.
Play or Training Therapy
There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blasé and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.
Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.
Focused Attention
One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem.
This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.
You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:
To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.
When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.
What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.
Punishment is not an Option
It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.
Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?
Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.
Obedience Classes?
Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.
Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.
If the dog has any tendency to snap at dogs or people or to bark inappropriately, a head Halter or Halti can be an excellent safeguard that helps to eliminate this habit without introducing new problems. Have a trainer or behaviour specialist help you fit the halter/halti. Use your focused attention exercise to keep the dog's mind off the Halter/Halti. Be sure to remove the head halter at all times except when you are actively working the dog. Don't use a long line with a head halter, because you could put a dangerous amount of force against the neck.
What Other Treatments Could Help?
Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.
To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option ,especially with the fearful phobic dog
If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.
These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc;
o Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet
o Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.
Available Chemist, health food shop or internet
o D.A.P Diffusers: In mammals all lactating females release substances which are called appeasing pheromones, the function is to reassure and calm their offspring, In the bitch these are produced 3-5 days post whelping by the sebaceous glands of the belly near the milk glands.
They are believed to enhance attachment between mother and pups and to reassure and comfort. As the pup explores its new environment it will come across new stimuli which set off emotional reactions and stresses.
The pup reacts by looking for mum with her reassuring odour which stabilises its emotional state. Research has shown that these reassuring properties last well into adulthood. They appear to modulate both emotional state and social interaction throughout the dog's life. The DAP Diffuser standing for Dog Appeasing Pheromone Diffuser is a chemical mimic of the mothers natural pheromone and is supplied in spray and plug in varieties. I prefer the plug in as it has a culminative effect constantly seeding the area with calming smells.
Available Vet or Internet or Me
o Anxiety: Promotes a sense of calm in animals exhibiting fretting, fear, anxiety or any unwanted behaviour caused by: thunderstorms, fireworks, travel, being left alone, vet and grooming visits. 100% natural organic non-sedating liquid. Safe for cats, kittens, dogs, puppies, birds, rabbits, and ferrets.
Dosage: Once in the morning, evening and bedtime, into mouth or in water. Under 20 lbs.: 5 drops, 20-100 lbs.:10 drops, over 100 lbs.:15 drops. Reduce dosage with improvement, repeat with flare up.
o Prozac: Mainstream controlled drug and only available from your Veterinarian. Originally developed for humans, the controversial antidepressant is now being prescribed by veterinarians for dogs suffering from a variety of emotional disorders.
This is sometimes used in cases of depression, aggression panic attacks and serious phobic responses. The drug is believed to work in the same way as it does in humans by altering the uptake of the brain chemical serotonin. Scientists hope the drug will cut the number of dog attacks and lead to fewer animals being destroyed, normally used with a tapering program of drug treatment
Available Vet only
With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication homeopathic or otherwise with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program
Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. PAACT Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He is also a behavioural spokesman for Disney and has appeared on Television, Radio and in National Newspapers on many occassions
© Stan Rawlinson Telephone: 0208 979 2019 Mobile Number: 07976 153161 E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk web site http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
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