How To Treat Your Puppy From Day One
There are some things to carefully consider before buying a pet dog. Dogs can live up to fifteen years and more, are you ready for that kind of commitment? He will need obedience classes and potty training before he learns not to mess in the home. Then there are vets fees and the cost of a bed, toys, collar and leash etc; all not cheap. Do you have an area where the dog can play outdoors that is fenced off if not you will need to take him for daily walks.
Try to get your new puppy in the morning as this will give him the day to get used to his new surroundings before bedtime. Let him explore his new home. Start to teach him the basics straight away such as potty training and where to sleep. Exercise and play are good for your dog, he needs it to stay healthy.
Potty training is one of the first things you will want to do but remember that your puppy is a baby that doesn’t yet have complete bowel control.. Get into a routine of taking your puppy outside at regular intervals. Never yell or punish him for having an accident especially if you don’t catch him in the act, otherwise he will not know why you are angry. If you catch him in the act say “No”, pick him up and take him outside to finish his business. Never yell or get angry. Every time he does it in the proper place praise him, pet him and reward him. Potty training shouldn’t be a hassle, rather its one of the first bonding experiences between you and your puppy.
Generally it is best to start formal training at four to eight months. You will need to be consistent and patient. Losing your temper will just frighten him. When your dog does something right then in a cheerful tone praise him. Rather train in short sessions than long ones otherwise you will both get bored.
Your dog will eat most things but you should be careful what you feed him e.g. chocolate is a definite no no as it contains a substance that can be toxic to dogs. Do not let him over eat and become overweight this causes joint problems and other illnesses.
Make sure your vet gives him his vaccinations. Its best to spay or neuter if you are not planning on breeding. And finally, grooming your dog is important, not only will he look healthy he will feel healthy.
Derek is an online entrepreneur who has had a life long love of pets both big & small.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Is A Premium Dog Food Really That Much Better For Your Dog
==========The Scoop on Premium Dog Food========
If you're interested in premium dog food, then I probably don't have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than "average" for your furry friend.
But how much do you really know about what's in a premium food and what your particular pet's needs are? I'm no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health -- and particularly on human teeth!!).
Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure, you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he's eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.
===========Complete Nutrition?===============
Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There's one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you'll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.
Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won't need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you'd end up saving money on the premium formulas. That's because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You'll save on pooper scoopers too!)
Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you'll know when your dog isn't feeling up to par.
Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you'll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you're feeding him. If you see signs that he isn't, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.
Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we're on that subject, it's always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn't just pick at his food.
Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:
============Essential Nutrients=============
Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:
Protein --23% of total intake
Fats --5% of total intake
Carbohydrates --65% of total intake
Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E, B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.
It's generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that's primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good quality meat has been removed. "Crude protein" can be a similarly poor source, since it may include parts of the animal that can't even be digested or absorbed by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).
Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present, and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.
===========Wet vs. Dry============
You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I'm not sure what) don't offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.
That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog's kidneys. So, to be on the safe side, check with your vet.
===========Life Stages============
Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs. They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get 25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed.
Most premium dog food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn't hurt to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So it's hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy food. Again, your vet can help out here.
Also, remember not to try to "rush" the growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he's growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don't overdo it with portions size.
Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium dog food companies as a "maintenance diet".
Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about anything, whether it's good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter is part of a dog's natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These make great low-calorie treats, too!
One thing you should never feed your dog is chocolate--it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.
Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it's hard to give an age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using weight as a guideline, and offers the following:
Small breeds or dogs weighing less than 20 pounds:7 years of age
Medium breeds or dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds:7 years of age
Large breeds or dogs weighing 51 to 90 pounds:6 years of age
Giant breeds or dogs weighing 91 pounds or more:5 years of age
The ASPCA recommends that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before they're obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we're not alone!). Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn't mean you should lower your older dog's protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced protein.
One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don't even realize their dog is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Most human food isn't good for your dog.
===========How Much to Feed============
How's your dog's weight? You should be able to feel your dog's backbone and ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to "dig" to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she's underweight.
If you're not sure how much to feed, you'll love the interactive Dog Food Calculator on PetsMart's home page! It's the result of considerable research that has been published in scientific journals and accepted by industry experts. You can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out how long that 40-lb bag will last!
===========Supplements============
If you're all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn't thriving and there's no other medical explanation for it might improve with supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on supplements. Since there's a danger of doing more harm than good, you should definitely discuss supplements with your vet.
If you do decide to use one, pick one that's made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin formulated specifically for dogs. That way she'll get everything in the right amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won't overwhelm or suppress your dog's own internal regulating mechanisms.
=======Special Diets==========
There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you're feeding her the best of premium dog food, if your dog isn't thriving, it's possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets -- holistic, raw foods, even kosher -- to optimize their pet's health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they're better, not because their dog is having any issues.
We'll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you've gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.
© 2004, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of DevotedToDogs.org where she offers information on a wide range of topics near and dear to a dog owner's heart.
Visit the site to learn about human foods that are hazardous to your dogs health
You can reach Carolyn by email at carolyn@netbrainer.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carolyn_Schweitzer
If you're interested in premium dog food, then I probably don't have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than "average" for your furry friend.
But how much do you really know about what's in a premium food and what your particular pet's needs are? I'm no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health -- and particularly on human teeth!!).
Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure, you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he's eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.
===========Complete Nutrition?===============
Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There's one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you'll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.
Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won't need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you'd end up saving money on the premium formulas. That's because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You'll save on pooper scoopers too!)
Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you'll know when your dog isn't feeling up to par.
Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you'll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you're feeding him. If you see signs that he isn't, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.
Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we're on that subject, it's always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn't just pick at his food.
Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:
============Essential Nutrients=============
Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:
Protein --23% of total intake
Fats --5% of total intake
Carbohydrates --65% of total intake
Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E, B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.
It's generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that's primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good quality meat has been removed. "Crude protein" can be a similarly poor source, since it may include parts of the animal that can't even be digested or absorbed by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).
Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present, and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.
===========Wet vs. Dry============
You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I'm not sure what) don't offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.
That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog's kidneys. So, to be on the safe side, check with your vet.
===========Life Stages============
Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs. They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get 25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed.
Most premium dog food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn't hurt to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So it's hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy food. Again, your vet can help out here.
Also, remember not to try to "rush" the growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he's growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don't overdo it with portions size.
Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium dog food companies as a "maintenance diet".
Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about anything, whether it's good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter is part of a dog's natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These make great low-calorie treats, too!
One thing you should never feed your dog is chocolate--it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.
Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it's hard to give an age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using weight as a guideline, and offers the following:
Small breeds or dogs weighing less than 20 pounds:7 years of age
Medium breeds or dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds:7 years of age
Large breeds or dogs weighing 51 to 90 pounds:6 years of age
Giant breeds or dogs weighing 91 pounds or more:5 years of age
The ASPCA recommends that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before they're obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we're not alone!). Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn't mean you should lower your older dog's protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced protein.
One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don't even realize their dog is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Most human food isn't good for your dog.
===========How Much to Feed============
How's your dog's weight? You should be able to feel your dog's backbone and ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to "dig" to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she's underweight.
If you're not sure how much to feed, you'll love the interactive Dog Food Calculator on PetsMart's home page! It's the result of considerable research that has been published in scientific journals and accepted by industry experts. You can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out how long that 40-lb bag will last!
===========Supplements============
If you're all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn't thriving and there's no other medical explanation for it might improve with supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on supplements. Since there's a danger of doing more harm than good, you should definitely discuss supplements with your vet.
If you do decide to use one, pick one that's made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin formulated specifically for dogs. That way she'll get everything in the right amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won't overwhelm or suppress your dog's own internal regulating mechanisms.
=======Special Diets==========
There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you're feeding her the best of premium dog food, if your dog isn't thriving, it's possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets -- holistic, raw foods, even kosher -- to optimize their pet's health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they're better, not because their dog is having any issues.
We'll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you've gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.
© 2004, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of DevotedToDogs.org where she offers information on a wide range of topics near and dear to a dog owner's heart.
Visit the site to learn about human foods that are hazardous to your dogs health
You can reach Carolyn by email at carolyn@netbrainer.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carolyn_Schweitzer
Sunday, October 24, 2010
10 Clever Ways to Spot the Best & Worst Dog Trainers on the Web Or in Your Town
Many average trainers teach "average group classes," charge you an "average price" and have, well... that "average" knowledge and skill about dogs, dog training, dog behavior and canine psychology. Most owners who don't know better or who don't really care about these facts, just settle with such trainers and end up with "average results" or even worse-NO RESULTS-in training their dogs! In contrast, the Master Minds I'll be describing in this chapter aren't your average at all and are known to beat the odds.
So who emerges from the pack? There is an amazing energy and spirit about these individuals which you'll notice right away that goes far beyond dog training. In fact, they know it is much more than dealing with dogs, and this is where I'll open your eyes to the traits and qualities of the SMARTEST and the most successful dog experts in the business. Because of their knowledge, skill and persona, they are not only making it--but making it big with class and integrity. Again, don't forget that I'm referring to the SMARTEST, so you don't think that they just got lucky for being at the "right place," at the "right time" or by meeting the "right person." Even if that was the case for a few to some degree, before you know it, they took over and kept on paddling on their own.
I learned a long time ago that if you want to get better in anything, you have to put your ego aside and learn from much better and smarter minds than yourself.
Sometimes this simply came down to hiring the best expert money can buy. (I've also learned a lot from the worst-of-the-worst. After all, this is where you learn what NOT to do.) After studying those who were considered to be as the "real deal," I've noticed that they all came from a totally different class and mentality, and it's no wonder why their success rate was so hard to ignore. When put through the test, they all possessed these ten qualities about them:
1. They Care about You, Your Dog and Their Reputation
You see, it's not always about how much you know or how great you are, but it is also about how much you "care." This simply means these trainers are truly nice people. The old saying, "nice guys finish last," isn't their motto. Studies have shown that nice people live longer, are happier, get more referrals, are always surrounded by friends and relatives, rarely get sued, and rarely get killed. Some may also have a great sense of humor. Sorry, only some. We all know someone with a sense of humor and know that this shows that they love what they do, don't let things bother them as much, and care to make others if not laugh, at least smile here and there. Why the majority of dog trainers are so rude, mean, and disrespectful and act like Mr./Mrs. Know-It-All, is beyond me. It's no secret that most of the time you can tell a lot about someone the minute you talk to them on the phone or in person. That again is, if, you are even able to reach any of them on the phone. Which brings up the fact of caring, once again.
Those who truly CARE not only will get back to you, but often try to reach you immediately. They know that you may need help right away!! You'll soon find out that most dog trainers leave you hanging and you start to grow gray hair waiting for a call back or an e-mail.
Once you are finally able to get a live person on the phone, make sure you get a good vibe from the very start, if not, why bother? This simply means no matter how good they may be, you will be stuck with a jerk, psycho, weirdo, nut job and the list goes on and on. Women are much better than men with their intuition. They say, "It has to feel right." Or "I didn't get a good vibe from him/her." If it the person makes you feel uncomfortable by being too pushy, rude, condescending, or there is something you don't like about him/her, then you could be stuck with this person in your home, in private, or for six to eight weeks down the line.
Top trainers usually answer your tough questions with patience and respect and don't mind or get offended by how much you challenge their knowledge or expertise. These individuals don't just deliver, but often OVER-deliver. This is because they care about their image and their reputation and truly want to stand out from the pack. They know going that extra mile WILL get them that extra attention. After all, how many times have you hired a painter, a contractor, an attorney, or even a babysitter who disappointed you with their poor work ethics? They did a poor job or didn't care much. As some say, "They just go with the flow," and never care about any constructive criticism from ANYONE. You simply don't see that "wow factor" or that "pizzazz" in their work. Noooooooo, I didn't say pizza again. So put down the Parmesan cheese.
If you've already hired a dog trainer in the past, you probably went out of your way to make sure you were hiring a "pro," just to find out that they were definitely a "pro" but also a pro in doing a lousy job or a pro in--"ripping you off!" How fast someone gets back to you, or even if, they even bother to get back to you are all the qualities you should look for. For example, a lot of group class trainers if they don't have a class starting soon, or their class happens to be full, won't even bother to call you back. They even get lazy to mention this on their answering machine. This would never happen with those who actually care about you and your dog.
Once you get to actually talk to these individuals, you can't help it but notice how honest, caring, genuine, and professional they come across.
Whether it is in person, on the phone, or by e-mail, the ones who know they are on top of their game never sound pushy or desperate. In fact, they know not everyone recognizes, appreciates, or even deserves the very best. This is just a fact of life. Those who are among the best-of-the-best in the world of dog training, are considered to be as remarkable teachers/counselors and don't get mad when I add this-even great therapists. The truth is, that the majority of dog owners have no technique, get nervous, act tense, are too harsh with their dog, get too loud, or they can't get firm enough if and when needed. And what's even more sad is none of the trainers who they even hired in the past, bothered to point out their GOOD qualities either. Everybody knows it's not that hard to point out someone's weaknesses. What makes a good trainer brilliant is his/her ability to praise the owners' good habits while correcting their mistakes in a courteous manner. Unfortunately the majority of dog trainers lack people skills and are famous for treating the owners like dogs. I had to learn this the hard way. So the ones that DO make a positive impact among dog owners are the ones that know there is a difference between insulting someone and giving a critique.
You see, there are thousands of great "trainers" out there, thousands--but only a few great "instructors!" Training and teaching the owners is where lies the real challenge.
2. Their Training Method Is Backed by Common Sense
As a writer I hate saying this, but please don't believe everything you read-especially things that just don't make any sense. If you don't see any logic or rationality behind it, how do you suppose your poor dog is going to make any sense out of it? Here's an example. I have a client who owns a Cocker Spaniel that was vicious toward dogs and children. The behaviorists advised her to do lots of parallel walks with bag of treats to use when she ran into other dogs and kids. The dog would stop eating the treats and STILL lunge at any dog they encountered. I guess he saw them as a dessert after those yummy treats. Again, there was no common sense behind the behaviorist's advice, was there?
When in doubt, always ask yourself: Does this seem rational? Am I getting anywhere with this? Are people going to laugh at me?
Even with what you read in my book or on my website, observe it with an open mind and maybe TRY it first, and then be the judge. Once you try something, then you can be certain whether it did or did not work for you and your dog. Otherwise you are just relying on assumptions instead of facts. The same rule applies if you are instructed by your trainer, see it on television, were instructed by your trainer in a group class, or even if it comes from someone with a Ph.D. you need to stop and ask yourself where's the logic and practicality behind their advice? Be smart about it and don't let others brainwash you by trying methods that have no rationality to support them. Smart trainers don't mind asking you, "Does this make sense to you?" or "Do you see the logic behind what we are trying to accomplish?" Again, if it doesn't make any sense, please don't make a fool out of yourself.
Smart Dogs - Dumb Trainers:
Trainers who recommend that you should bark at your dog, growl at your dog, yelp like a dog, or ignore your dog's bad habits such as jumping up on you, barking at you, don't make sense and their tactics won't work. If they do, knock yourself out. Folks, we were taught to use common sense from a very early age in kindergarten. In case you forgot, the teaching was:
"Stop and Think." It wasn't "Go for it Chopper! Then we'll think of the consequence." (Now for some of us, getting the lesson afterward works much better. I guess as long as we "get it" that's all it really matters, doesn't it?)
3. They Have an Uncanny Ability to Pay Attention to Details
Yes, details my dog-loving friend. These experts are like a sponge and absorb everything and hardly miss even the smallest details. ( I've been told that I'm like that. Just in case it will come as a shock for those of you who prefer to hire me in person.) Whether people request that I go to them or if they prefer to send their dogs to me to be trained or rehabilitated, like a skilled crime scene investigator, I'll ask questions and then observe everything for myself, and I do mean EVERYTHING. By now, you should have gotten an idea of what I'm referring to by paying attention to details. If not, please be sure to read the chapter on (Questions you need to ask before hiring ANY expert.) But let me be a bit specific. I observe your technique, your posture, voice tone, attitude and overall perception. Are you firm, easy-going, loud, harsh, stubborn or depending on your mood, a mixture of all? How about too nervous, scared or maybe you think that saying "NO" to your dog might hurt his feelings and we may never see that tail wag again?
The importance of such details is why I cannot emphasize enough how crucial working with an expert in "private" really is. Because of my attention to details, even if I train your dog WITHOUT your involvement, I'll still manage to accomplish much more compared to a group class full of twenty dogs.
All the topnotch trainers you study, you'll notice that every single one of them have trained their own dogs WITHOUT any distractions first. So why should it be any different with you?
Top trainers always introduce distractions to their dogs systematically and this is why you truly see a huge difference in their dogs' performance and command response. They strongly believe that it's not fair to expect you or your dog to learn properly in an unfamiliar setting with lots of different distractions, and anticipate seeing a real difference in the dog's learning progress. It's even worse in group classes where there are lots of other dogs distracting you by constantly pulling on their leashes, barking, whimpering, lunging, or acting hyper around each another. Bottom line, by working in private, you'll see things from both the owner's and from the dog's perspective. Hiring an expert in private is the only way you'll be able to ask questions that pertain "specifically" to you and your needs. Top dog experts know this approach is THE BEST and fastest way to get maximum results and swear by it.
4. They Will Make Sure You Don't End Up With a "Half-Trained" Dog
This means you see a "practical" approach behind their training technique. Remember, your method has to work anywhere and anytime, or else you're wasting your time and setting yourself and your poor dog up for a failure. Allow me to clarify. These trainers will make "sure" that your dog is NOT just another half-trained dog. You know the ones that:
* Mind their owners in a group class, but act like idiots at home.
* Listen perfectly when you have treats, but ignore you otherwise.
* Listens only when the trainer's around, but hardly at all at other times.
* All training goes out the window when you run into strangers or other dogs.
That's what I mean by a "half-trained dog." Elite trainers always prepare you and your dog to become street-smart. Competition training, show confirmation, agility training and making your dog do tricks sure look cute and are even impressive, but are not applicable out in the real world. The majority of dog owners do not seem to really care for them anyway. Always remember this: If your training technique can't be applied in your home, in your neighborhood, or on your day-to-day routines, sorry, you can't refer to it as "real-life" dog training. This means you've been wasting your time and money with the wrong method, wrong trainer, or with wrong group classes.
You see, if a method is effective, you'll see it working immediately, and if it's just nonsense-- you'll see it too. This is how top experts often deliver jaw-dropping results within seconds.
I always tell my clients: "By the second lesson, we could talk about how bad your dog used to behave, and how he has changed for the better already." If you've paid attention to my video clips on my site, you may be surprised to learn that most of those dogs have been trained by me in matter of minutes. I get the dog under control immediately and make them mind me on the spot. The rest is just polishing up, and making sure the dog obeys the owner. After all, it is NOT my dog and the dog should obey the owner.
5. Their Training Method Even Works from a Distance and Off-Leash
Only a few get to this level. You want to eventually have COMPLETE CONTROL of your dog without even being leashed anywhere, anytime and in front of the most tempting distractions the outside world throws at you. This means across the room, across the street, in the backyard, front yard and even from far away with just the tone of your voice. I said your voice, not screaming from the top of your lungs. Top trainers proudly advertise this specialty and can pull it off with their own dogs. Only true professionals can deliver such results. You'll find that most trainers are considered as part-timers and hobbyists. That sad truth is, amateurs rarely are able to get your dog reliably off-leash trained.
It's no secret that there is a leash law. Which is why having your dog completely
"off-leash trained" isn't just cool these days, but a NECESSITY!
You and your pooch need to be prepared for that "what if" moment. What if your dog bolts out the door, manages to slip out of her collar, lunges and breaks her collar, attacks a dog, a cat, or maybe everything was fine and your dog was running free enjoying herself, when all of sudden ________ (you fill in the blank). The fact is, no matter how careful or responsible you may be, your dog will STILL GET LOOSE and will make a fool out of you. Only a very small percentage of trainers have the expertise to teach you the true art of off-leash training; make sure you look in the right places. A huge list of my clientèle includes those who are dying to get their dogs completely off-leash trained. This is because the trainer in which they've worked with, didn't have a clue on how to get his/her own dog off-leash trained--let alone be able to help someone else with it. Or, you see the trainers' dog was truly the only real "trained dog" in there, but they just can't get the poor owners to achieve the same results with their dogs. How sad and pathetic!
6. Your Dog's Age NEVER Matters to Them
Whether be a ten week old pup or ten years adult dog, your dog is smart enough to learn what is right and what is wrong. What is acceptable and what isn't. Your dog's annoying bad habits such as: Barking, Jumping, Growling, Snapping, Bolting and Not Being Fully House Trained, along with any other bad habits or even responding to your daily commands aren't impossible tasks for the real experts to overcome. This means that they are well-educated and experienced in solving your dog's day-to-day issues and love to take on the challenge. Why let your older dog or your young puppy run your life for you, when you are the one who is paying all the bills and providing everything else? The least your dog can do is to respect and obey your commands and respect the rules of your house. Is that too much to ask?
7. They Gladly Accept Even Hard-to-Train Breeds
Real experts in dogs are skilled, versatile, and welcome the challenge of working with stubborn AND dominant dogs. It doesn't really matter to them whether your dog is labeled as aggressive, un-trainable, red zone, or hopeless. They are willing to accept the risk and give you and your dog another honest chance. Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Akitas, Dobermans, German Shepherds, Bull Dogs (English or American), Chow Chows, Shar Pei, and those giant breeds that look like Pit Bulls on steroids. I am talking about: Presa Canario, Cane Corso, Argentino Dogo and Kevin Salemo, are just to name a few among the hard-to-train breeds. You may find this hard to believe, but even Labrador Retrievers can be a challenge to train. This is because they are known to be very strong, hyper, over-friendly and easily distracted.
You see, when a dog expert is willing to accept a case of an aggressive, sensitive, overprotective, excessive barker, whiner, or even one that's a bit unpredictable, that's when they HAVE TO rely on years of experience, knowledge, skill and even their instinct. This is because they are a true dog lover and don't discriminate against certain breeds and experienced enough to take on any challenge. Small, big, scary, wussy, mixed, pure breed or not, it doesn't make not one bit of difference to them. A dog, is simply another dog to them.
8. Their Method Might Be Firm, but It is Also Kind
Let's face it. No parent can ever raise a child properly without being firm and kind. Firm alone may still get you some results, but that "kind" is what makes it more of a loving and healthy relationship. I met a trainer years ago that had a super dog. This dog was one of the most well-trained German Shepherds I have ever seen. The sad part is, when his trainer would release him and send him off to play, the dog would still stand there and look at him for another command. Yes you guessed it. The dog became a soldier, a robot that just couldn't have fun anymore. He wouldn't even want to or even knew how, to play with my dogs. How sad. I told the trainer that you are definitely this dog's master, but not his best friend. He shrugged and said, "Kevin, you can be his best friend. I don't really care about stuff like that."
In order to make sure you don't end up with such a dog, you need to make sure you are also your dog's "buddy." When your dog makes a mistake, you need to correct it at that "exact" moment, and also praise and reward it lavishly on the spot. As long as you don't confuse firm with harsh or abusive, you should be fine. Just don't forget. Firm could be a simple as tugging on the leash when you catch your dog misbehave, and follow it with praise and affection when you see him obey or stop an unwanted behavior. It could also be to stop your dog's lunging, jumping, barking, snapping or even crotch/butt sniffing. Just holding tightly on your dog's leash for your life isn't training, that's called restraining. Do you want to train your dog or restrain it? That's what I thought. Now you'll always know when you see a true pro. They make working with all dogs seem so easy, that you swear they can even do it blindfolded. Your dog will listen and obey them without any yelling or the need of excessive force.
You'll see the smoothness and the flow in their technique, as your dog performs at his best right before your eyes--as if it is "their" dog and NOT yours.
This simply reflects the fact that they've worked with thousands of different breeds of dogs, have years of hands-on experience, and possess that amazing ability to accurately read dogs' temperament and body language with no effort and be able to apply their training technique on your dog. Their uncanny ability to read dogs so well and have the confidence and the skill to back it up, is why they are so well known for delivering such outstanding results.
9. They Let You Experiment with the Use of Different Training Tools
You can gather the best dog experts in the world, don't provide them any leashes, no collars, no harnesses, no whistles, no ropes, no toys, no treats and no tennis balls--they might as well be in their swimming suits. Then throw in some unruly dogs in there. You'll see that there won't be much that anyone can do. Unless one of the possess some kind of mind control like Criss Angel over the dogs and people, which I really would like to see for myself to believe, there isn't much any of these top experts can do without the right training tools.
Think about it for a moment. Can you do YOUR job without your pen, paper, phone, a desk, your vehicle, your computer or the certain tools and equipments that make your job run easier and smoother? Maybe you can. But you might as well be traveling back in time with your time-machine hundreds years back. Don't you agree that certain tools DO work better and faster? It's not much different when it comes to dog training tools. If there is a tool that works best on your dog, these trainers will let you try it. They truly use every weapon they can get their hands on and make sure you are able to control your dog in ANY situation and are happy with your results. This is because they always think outside the box.
Diverse Trainers know from experience that there isn't that "one magical tool" that works on every dog, every time. They improvise to make sure what works today, also does tomorrow!
After all, why use a tool that stopped working, was never effective in the first place, or doesn't even seem to faze your dog when you REALLY need it to work? Again, I am referring to see if that tool of your choice is truly as effective around strangers and the dogs in which your pooch is not familiar with. Let's not forget the cats, kids running around, or the joggers. Every one of these examples are considered as your daily distractions, don't they? Most trainers these days will have a nonsense tool that might have worked with a smaller, less dominant, less hyper and not as aggressive dog, hoping it will have the same effect with a much larger, stronger and far more aggressive dog. It reminds of "Bringing a knife to a gun fight." What's sad is that the majority of these trainers will stubbornly refuse to let the poor clients be diverse by trying a different tool. This especially doesn't make sense to me when you've exhausted the use of many different training tools up to this point and are desperate to try anything that would work.
In conclusion, this all comes down to finding a tool that is a best match according to your physical strengths, limitations, coordination AND your dog's size, speed, breed, prey drive and how much your dog responds to you with and without challenging distractions.
10. They Rarely Give Up and Follow a "Diverse Method"
Topnotch trainers never believe that your dog cannot be trained. Their way of thinking is completely different. They focus more on HOW they can help you train your dog. This means they are willing to explore different methods if and when needed. In a nutshell, what makes these trainers brilliant is their ability to mix different methods of training to custom fit what works best for you and your pooch. All that really matters to them is making sure that the method works-and it works "every-single-time." Sometimes this means you need to get firm with your dog, and sometimes you should ease up and cut him some slack.
There you have it. Now do you believe me? Didn't I say that they truly make only one percent of the dog experts in the industry?
You'll agree with me that, there are many trainers out there, but only a few masters. These are the true qualities of the legendary dog trainers. Such greatness is extremely hard to come by. As I mentioned earlier, I strongly believe that they make less than one percent of dog experts in the industry. They are surely the most highly paid canine experts money can buy. In meeting these individuals I found them to be amazing. They were excellent trainers and amazing instructors. They were extremely confident, and sometimes even a bit cocky--but always backed it up with their knowledge and skill. This reminds me of my what I always say,
"It's good to be humble unless you are pressed against the wall and only then should you be able to CRUSH your competition." Or, "Act strong when you're weak and weak when you are strong." ( That last one isn't mine. I borrowed it from a boxing movie.)
Most of these individuals have dedicated years of their lives in making a difference by helping dogs, dog owners, and even other dog trainers. Remember, there is a big difference between having a well-behaved dog and possessing the technique, the knowledge, the patience, and the proper communication skills to TEACH it to others. These experts have mastered all of ten of these principles! This is why they are incredibly successful and come highly recommended by everyone. If you are a trainer reading this, to become one of the greatest, you need to improve in all of these ten areas. That's right. Not just good, better, or excellent, but to be among the greatest icons, dog phenomena, and the true legends. Teaching group classes on the side every Wednesday night at seven won't do it.
Is there a legend in your town? Maybe, maybe not. Most of my clients travel hours to work with me. Some even have me fly to their city and sometimes even COUNTRIES because they weren't impressed by any other expert locally, or were told that their dog was hopeless.
There are lots of experts, but only a few legends. Isn't this true in any profession?
Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It's hard to paint Kevin's image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and philosophy truly makes him distinct.
If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin's book. You'll finally be able to put an end to your dog's: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness-- to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_Salem
For more info go to my dog training review site at:
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Thanks, Derek
So who emerges from the pack? There is an amazing energy and spirit about these individuals which you'll notice right away that goes far beyond dog training. In fact, they know it is much more than dealing with dogs, and this is where I'll open your eyes to the traits and qualities of the SMARTEST and the most successful dog experts in the business. Because of their knowledge, skill and persona, they are not only making it--but making it big with class and integrity. Again, don't forget that I'm referring to the SMARTEST, so you don't think that they just got lucky for being at the "right place," at the "right time" or by meeting the "right person." Even if that was the case for a few to some degree, before you know it, they took over and kept on paddling on their own.
I learned a long time ago that if you want to get better in anything, you have to put your ego aside and learn from much better and smarter minds than yourself.
Sometimes this simply came down to hiring the best expert money can buy. (I've also learned a lot from the worst-of-the-worst. After all, this is where you learn what NOT to do.) After studying those who were considered to be as the "real deal," I've noticed that they all came from a totally different class and mentality, and it's no wonder why their success rate was so hard to ignore. When put through the test, they all possessed these ten qualities about them:
1. They Care about You, Your Dog and Their Reputation
You see, it's not always about how much you know or how great you are, but it is also about how much you "care." This simply means these trainers are truly nice people. The old saying, "nice guys finish last," isn't their motto. Studies have shown that nice people live longer, are happier, get more referrals, are always surrounded by friends and relatives, rarely get sued, and rarely get killed. Some may also have a great sense of humor. Sorry, only some. We all know someone with a sense of humor and know that this shows that they love what they do, don't let things bother them as much, and care to make others if not laugh, at least smile here and there. Why the majority of dog trainers are so rude, mean, and disrespectful and act like Mr./Mrs. Know-It-All, is beyond me. It's no secret that most of the time you can tell a lot about someone the minute you talk to them on the phone or in person. That again is, if, you are even able to reach any of them on the phone. Which brings up the fact of caring, once again.
Those who truly CARE not only will get back to you, but often try to reach you immediately. They know that you may need help right away!! You'll soon find out that most dog trainers leave you hanging and you start to grow gray hair waiting for a call back or an e-mail.
Once you are finally able to get a live person on the phone, make sure you get a good vibe from the very start, if not, why bother? This simply means no matter how good they may be, you will be stuck with a jerk, psycho, weirdo, nut job and the list goes on and on. Women are much better than men with their intuition. They say, "It has to feel right." Or "I didn't get a good vibe from him/her." If it the person makes you feel uncomfortable by being too pushy, rude, condescending, or there is something you don't like about him/her, then you could be stuck with this person in your home, in private, or for six to eight weeks down the line.
Top trainers usually answer your tough questions with patience and respect and don't mind or get offended by how much you challenge their knowledge or expertise. These individuals don't just deliver, but often OVER-deliver. This is because they care about their image and their reputation and truly want to stand out from the pack. They know going that extra mile WILL get them that extra attention. After all, how many times have you hired a painter, a contractor, an attorney, or even a babysitter who disappointed you with their poor work ethics? They did a poor job or didn't care much. As some say, "They just go with the flow," and never care about any constructive criticism from ANYONE. You simply don't see that "wow factor" or that "pizzazz" in their work. Noooooooo, I didn't say pizza again. So put down the Parmesan cheese.
If you've already hired a dog trainer in the past, you probably went out of your way to make sure you were hiring a "pro," just to find out that they were definitely a "pro" but also a pro in doing a lousy job or a pro in--"ripping you off!" How fast someone gets back to you, or even if, they even bother to get back to you are all the qualities you should look for. For example, a lot of group class trainers if they don't have a class starting soon, or their class happens to be full, won't even bother to call you back. They even get lazy to mention this on their answering machine. This would never happen with those who actually care about you and your dog.
Once you get to actually talk to these individuals, you can't help it but notice how honest, caring, genuine, and professional they come across.
Whether it is in person, on the phone, or by e-mail, the ones who know they are on top of their game never sound pushy or desperate. In fact, they know not everyone recognizes, appreciates, or even deserves the very best. This is just a fact of life. Those who are among the best-of-the-best in the world of dog training, are considered to be as remarkable teachers/counselors and don't get mad when I add this-even great therapists. The truth is, that the majority of dog owners have no technique, get nervous, act tense, are too harsh with their dog, get too loud, or they can't get firm enough if and when needed. And what's even more sad is none of the trainers who they even hired in the past, bothered to point out their GOOD qualities either. Everybody knows it's not that hard to point out someone's weaknesses. What makes a good trainer brilliant is his/her ability to praise the owners' good habits while correcting their mistakes in a courteous manner. Unfortunately the majority of dog trainers lack people skills and are famous for treating the owners like dogs. I had to learn this the hard way. So the ones that DO make a positive impact among dog owners are the ones that know there is a difference between insulting someone and giving a critique.
You see, there are thousands of great "trainers" out there, thousands--but only a few great "instructors!" Training and teaching the owners is where lies the real challenge.
2. Their Training Method Is Backed by Common Sense
As a writer I hate saying this, but please don't believe everything you read-especially things that just don't make any sense. If you don't see any logic or rationality behind it, how do you suppose your poor dog is going to make any sense out of it? Here's an example. I have a client who owns a Cocker Spaniel that was vicious toward dogs and children. The behaviorists advised her to do lots of parallel walks with bag of treats to use when she ran into other dogs and kids. The dog would stop eating the treats and STILL lunge at any dog they encountered. I guess he saw them as a dessert after those yummy treats. Again, there was no common sense behind the behaviorist's advice, was there?
When in doubt, always ask yourself: Does this seem rational? Am I getting anywhere with this? Are people going to laugh at me?
Even with what you read in my book or on my website, observe it with an open mind and maybe TRY it first, and then be the judge. Once you try something, then you can be certain whether it did or did not work for you and your dog. Otherwise you are just relying on assumptions instead of facts. The same rule applies if you are instructed by your trainer, see it on television, were instructed by your trainer in a group class, or even if it comes from someone with a Ph.D. you need to stop and ask yourself where's the logic and practicality behind their advice? Be smart about it and don't let others brainwash you by trying methods that have no rationality to support them. Smart trainers don't mind asking you, "Does this make sense to you?" or "Do you see the logic behind what we are trying to accomplish?" Again, if it doesn't make any sense, please don't make a fool out of yourself.
Smart Dogs - Dumb Trainers:
Trainers who recommend that you should bark at your dog, growl at your dog, yelp like a dog, or ignore your dog's bad habits such as jumping up on you, barking at you, don't make sense and their tactics won't work. If they do, knock yourself out. Folks, we were taught to use common sense from a very early age in kindergarten. In case you forgot, the teaching was:
"Stop and Think." It wasn't "Go for it Chopper! Then we'll think of the consequence." (Now for some of us, getting the lesson afterward works much better. I guess as long as we "get it" that's all it really matters, doesn't it?)
3. They Have an Uncanny Ability to Pay Attention to Details
Yes, details my dog-loving friend. These experts are like a sponge and absorb everything and hardly miss even the smallest details. ( I've been told that I'm like that. Just in case it will come as a shock for those of you who prefer to hire me in person.) Whether people request that I go to them or if they prefer to send their dogs to me to be trained or rehabilitated, like a skilled crime scene investigator, I'll ask questions and then observe everything for myself, and I do mean EVERYTHING. By now, you should have gotten an idea of what I'm referring to by paying attention to details. If not, please be sure to read the chapter on (Questions you need to ask before hiring ANY expert.) But let me be a bit specific. I observe your technique, your posture, voice tone, attitude and overall perception. Are you firm, easy-going, loud, harsh, stubborn or depending on your mood, a mixture of all? How about too nervous, scared or maybe you think that saying "NO" to your dog might hurt his feelings and we may never see that tail wag again?
The importance of such details is why I cannot emphasize enough how crucial working with an expert in "private" really is. Because of my attention to details, even if I train your dog WITHOUT your involvement, I'll still manage to accomplish much more compared to a group class full of twenty dogs.
All the topnotch trainers you study, you'll notice that every single one of them have trained their own dogs WITHOUT any distractions first. So why should it be any different with you?
Top trainers always introduce distractions to their dogs systematically and this is why you truly see a huge difference in their dogs' performance and command response. They strongly believe that it's not fair to expect you or your dog to learn properly in an unfamiliar setting with lots of different distractions, and anticipate seeing a real difference in the dog's learning progress. It's even worse in group classes where there are lots of other dogs distracting you by constantly pulling on their leashes, barking, whimpering, lunging, or acting hyper around each another. Bottom line, by working in private, you'll see things from both the owner's and from the dog's perspective. Hiring an expert in private is the only way you'll be able to ask questions that pertain "specifically" to you and your needs. Top dog experts know this approach is THE BEST and fastest way to get maximum results and swear by it.
4. They Will Make Sure You Don't End Up With a "Half-Trained" Dog
This means you see a "practical" approach behind their training technique. Remember, your method has to work anywhere and anytime, or else you're wasting your time and setting yourself and your poor dog up for a failure. Allow me to clarify. These trainers will make "sure" that your dog is NOT just another half-trained dog. You know the ones that:
* Mind their owners in a group class, but act like idiots at home.
* Listen perfectly when you have treats, but ignore you otherwise.
* Listens only when the trainer's around, but hardly at all at other times.
* All training goes out the window when you run into strangers or other dogs.
That's what I mean by a "half-trained dog." Elite trainers always prepare you and your dog to become street-smart. Competition training, show confirmation, agility training and making your dog do tricks sure look cute and are even impressive, but are not applicable out in the real world. The majority of dog owners do not seem to really care for them anyway. Always remember this: If your training technique can't be applied in your home, in your neighborhood, or on your day-to-day routines, sorry, you can't refer to it as "real-life" dog training. This means you've been wasting your time and money with the wrong method, wrong trainer, or with wrong group classes.
You see, if a method is effective, you'll see it working immediately, and if it's just nonsense-- you'll see it too. This is how top experts often deliver jaw-dropping results within seconds.
I always tell my clients: "By the second lesson, we could talk about how bad your dog used to behave, and how he has changed for the better already." If you've paid attention to my video clips on my site, you may be surprised to learn that most of those dogs have been trained by me in matter of minutes. I get the dog under control immediately and make them mind me on the spot. The rest is just polishing up, and making sure the dog obeys the owner. After all, it is NOT my dog and the dog should obey the owner.
5. Their Training Method Even Works from a Distance and Off-Leash
Only a few get to this level. You want to eventually have COMPLETE CONTROL of your dog without even being leashed anywhere, anytime and in front of the most tempting distractions the outside world throws at you. This means across the room, across the street, in the backyard, front yard and even from far away with just the tone of your voice. I said your voice, not screaming from the top of your lungs. Top trainers proudly advertise this specialty and can pull it off with their own dogs. Only true professionals can deliver such results. You'll find that most trainers are considered as part-timers and hobbyists. That sad truth is, amateurs rarely are able to get your dog reliably off-leash trained.
It's no secret that there is a leash law. Which is why having your dog completely
"off-leash trained" isn't just cool these days, but a NECESSITY!
You and your pooch need to be prepared for that "what if" moment. What if your dog bolts out the door, manages to slip out of her collar, lunges and breaks her collar, attacks a dog, a cat, or maybe everything was fine and your dog was running free enjoying herself, when all of sudden ________ (you fill in the blank). The fact is, no matter how careful or responsible you may be, your dog will STILL GET LOOSE and will make a fool out of you. Only a very small percentage of trainers have the expertise to teach you the true art of off-leash training; make sure you look in the right places. A huge list of my clientèle includes those who are dying to get their dogs completely off-leash trained. This is because the trainer in which they've worked with, didn't have a clue on how to get his/her own dog off-leash trained--let alone be able to help someone else with it. Or, you see the trainers' dog was truly the only real "trained dog" in there, but they just can't get the poor owners to achieve the same results with their dogs. How sad and pathetic!
6. Your Dog's Age NEVER Matters to Them
Whether be a ten week old pup or ten years adult dog, your dog is smart enough to learn what is right and what is wrong. What is acceptable and what isn't. Your dog's annoying bad habits such as: Barking, Jumping, Growling, Snapping, Bolting and Not Being Fully House Trained, along with any other bad habits or even responding to your daily commands aren't impossible tasks for the real experts to overcome. This means that they are well-educated and experienced in solving your dog's day-to-day issues and love to take on the challenge. Why let your older dog or your young puppy run your life for you, when you are the one who is paying all the bills and providing everything else? The least your dog can do is to respect and obey your commands and respect the rules of your house. Is that too much to ask?
7. They Gladly Accept Even Hard-to-Train Breeds
Real experts in dogs are skilled, versatile, and welcome the challenge of working with stubborn AND dominant dogs. It doesn't really matter to them whether your dog is labeled as aggressive, un-trainable, red zone, or hopeless. They are willing to accept the risk and give you and your dog another honest chance. Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Akitas, Dobermans, German Shepherds, Bull Dogs (English or American), Chow Chows, Shar Pei, and those giant breeds that look like Pit Bulls on steroids. I am talking about: Presa Canario, Cane Corso, Argentino Dogo and Kevin Salemo, are just to name a few among the hard-to-train breeds. You may find this hard to believe, but even Labrador Retrievers can be a challenge to train. This is because they are known to be very strong, hyper, over-friendly and easily distracted.
You see, when a dog expert is willing to accept a case of an aggressive, sensitive, overprotective, excessive barker, whiner, or even one that's a bit unpredictable, that's when they HAVE TO rely on years of experience, knowledge, skill and even their instinct. This is because they are a true dog lover and don't discriminate against certain breeds and experienced enough to take on any challenge. Small, big, scary, wussy, mixed, pure breed or not, it doesn't make not one bit of difference to them. A dog, is simply another dog to them.
8. Their Method Might Be Firm, but It is Also Kind
Let's face it. No parent can ever raise a child properly without being firm and kind. Firm alone may still get you some results, but that "kind" is what makes it more of a loving and healthy relationship. I met a trainer years ago that had a super dog. This dog was one of the most well-trained German Shepherds I have ever seen. The sad part is, when his trainer would release him and send him off to play, the dog would still stand there and look at him for another command. Yes you guessed it. The dog became a soldier, a robot that just couldn't have fun anymore. He wouldn't even want to or even knew how, to play with my dogs. How sad. I told the trainer that you are definitely this dog's master, but not his best friend. He shrugged and said, "Kevin, you can be his best friend. I don't really care about stuff like that."
In order to make sure you don't end up with such a dog, you need to make sure you are also your dog's "buddy." When your dog makes a mistake, you need to correct it at that "exact" moment, and also praise and reward it lavishly on the spot. As long as you don't confuse firm with harsh or abusive, you should be fine. Just don't forget. Firm could be a simple as tugging on the leash when you catch your dog misbehave, and follow it with praise and affection when you see him obey or stop an unwanted behavior. It could also be to stop your dog's lunging, jumping, barking, snapping or even crotch/butt sniffing. Just holding tightly on your dog's leash for your life isn't training, that's called restraining. Do you want to train your dog or restrain it? That's what I thought. Now you'll always know when you see a true pro. They make working with all dogs seem so easy, that you swear they can even do it blindfolded. Your dog will listen and obey them without any yelling or the need of excessive force.
You'll see the smoothness and the flow in their technique, as your dog performs at his best right before your eyes--as if it is "their" dog and NOT yours.
This simply reflects the fact that they've worked with thousands of different breeds of dogs, have years of hands-on experience, and possess that amazing ability to accurately read dogs' temperament and body language with no effort and be able to apply their training technique on your dog. Their uncanny ability to read dogs so well and have the confidence and the skill to back it up, is why they are so well known for delivering such outstanding results.
9. They Let You Experiment with the Use of Different Training Tools
You can gather the best dog experts in the world, don't provide them any leashes, no collars, no harnesses, no whistles, no ropes, no toys, no treats and no tennis balls--they might as well be in their swimming suits. Then throw in some unruly dogs in there. You'll see that there won't be much that anyone can do. Unless one of the possess some kind of mind control like Criss Angel over the dogs and people, which I really would like to see for myself to believe, there isn't much any of these top experts can do without the right training tools.
Think about it for a moment. Can you do YOUR job without your pen, paper, phone, a desk, your vehicle, your computer or the certain tools and equipments that make your job run easier and smoother? Maybe you can. But you might as well be traveling back in time with your time-machine hundreds years back. Don't you agree that certain tools DO work better and faster? It's not much different when it comes to dog training tools. If there is a tool that works best on your dog, these trainers will let you try it. They truly use every weapon they can get their hands on and make sure you are able to control your dog in ANY situation and are happy with your results. This is because they always think outside the box.
Diverse Trainers know from experience that there isn't that "one magical tool" that works on every dog, every time. They improvise to make sure what works today, also does tomorrow!
After all, why use a tool that stopped working, was never effective in the first place, or doesn't even seem to faze your dog when you REALLY need it to work? Again, I am referring to see if that tool of your choice is truly as effective around strangers and the dogs in which your pooch is not familiar with. Let's not forget the cats, kids running around, or the joggers. Every one of these examples are considered as your daily distractions, don't they? Most trainers these days will have a nonsense tool that might have worked with a smaller, less dominant, less hyper and not as aggressive dog, hoping it will have the same effect with a much larger, stronger and far more aggressive dog. It reminds of "Bringing a knife to a gun fight." What's sad is that the majority of these trainers will stubbornly refuse to let the poor clients be diverse by trying a different tool. This especially doesn't make sense to me when you've exhausted the use of many different training tools up to this point and are desperate to try anything that would work.
In conclusion, this all comes down to finding a tool that is a best match according to your physical strengths, limitations, coordination AND your dog's size, speed, breed, prey drive and how much your dog responds to you with and without challenging distractions.
10. They Rarely Give Up and Follow a "Diverse Method"
Topnotch trainers never believe that your dog cannot be trained. Their way of thinking is completely different. They focus more on HOW they can help you train your dog. This means they are willing to explore different methods if and when needed. In a nutshell, what makes these trainers brilliant is their ability to mix different methods of training to custom fit what works best for you and your pooch. All that really matters to them is making sure that the method works-and it works "every-single-time." Sometimes this means you need to get firm with your dog, and sometimes you should ease up and cut him some slack.
There you have it. Now do you believe me? Didn't I say that they truly make only one percent of the dog experts in the industry?
You'll agree with me that, there are many trainers out there, but only a few masters. These are the true qualities of the legendary dog trainers. Such greatness is extremely hard to come by. As I mentioned earlier, I strongly believe that they make less than one percent of dog experts in the industry. They are surely the most highly paid canine experts money can buy. In meeting these individuals I found them to be amazing. They were excellent trainers and amazing instructors. They were extremely confident, and sometimes even a bit cocky--but always backed it up with their knowledge and skill. This reminds me of my what I always say,
"It's good to be humble unless you are pressed against the wall and only then should you be able to CRUSH your competition." Or, "Act strong when you're weak and weak when you are strong." ( That last one isn't mine. I borrowed it from a boxing movie.)
Most of these individuals have dedicated years of their lives in making a difference by helping dogs, dog owners, and even other dog trainers. Remember, there is a big difference between having a well-behaved dog and possessing the technique, the knowledge, the patience, and the proper communication skills to TEACH it to others. These experts have mastered all of ten of these principles! This is why they are incredibly successful and come highly recommended by everyone. If you are a trainer reading this, to become one of the greatest, you need to improve in all of these ten areas. That's right. Not just good, better, or excellent, but to be among the greatest icons, dog phenomena, and the true legends. Teaching group classes on the side every Wednesday night at seven won't do it.
Is there a legend in your town? Maybe, maybe not. Most of my clients travel hours to work with me. Some even have me fly to their city and sometimes even COUNTRIES because they weren't impressed by any other expert locally, or were told that their dog was hopeless.
There are lots of experts, but only a few legends. Isn't this true in any profession?
Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It's hard to paint Kevin's image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and philosophy truly makes him distinct.
If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin's book. You'll finally be able to put an end to your dog's: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness-- to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_Salem
For more info go to my dog training review site at:
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Thanks, Derek
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Barking Dogs Training Ideas: Keep Your Dog From Nuisance Barking
Dogs, like people, enjoy communicating. Dogs, unlike people, can communicate with very loud barking. Help your pet avoid becoming a nuisance by using some good barking dog training ideas.
Of course, we appreciate when our dog warns us of potential danger by barking. It is actually part of its nature to protect its family. And if its human family has loved it and trained it well, this type of barking only occurs when needed. It is really the other kinds of barking that is unpleasant.
With some dog breeds being known for their vocal abilities it seems unreasonable to expect total silence. We must also be certain why our dog is barking. Usually, they bark to share feelings of fear, loneliness, hunger, or thirst. They will bark loudly when sending warnings. Providing the attention they need, with a good dose of affection may actually slow the barking to a minimum.
You can avoid much of the unnecessary barking by training your pet. Begin by using a firm voice to command it to stop. A single word such as stop or quit spoken with strength works well. Catching its attention is a good step to take when it is out of control. Once you have its attention, wait for it to stop barking, and then praise the dog for stopping, with affection. Praise the pet, and give it a small food treat as a reward. Do these steps with consistency and you may have great success rather quickly.
You really want to avoid shouting back at a barking dog. To the dog, it just sounds like his own barking, and he assumes you are joining his conversation. Keep your voice firm and strong, but do not shout.
Once the dog steps foot in your home, is when its barking training should begin. It matters not whether it is a puppy or an older adopted dog. Take steps to praise quiet, and command barking to stop. Eventually, you will win, as long as you keep repeating your steps with consistency.
All nuisance barking has some kind of trigger. It may be coming from inside your dog. It also might be something in the neighborhood that is frightening or threatening it. Make certain that you learn what the trigger is. A neighborhood bully taunting your pet can be made to stop. Leaving the dog alone all day may prompt it to bark because it is lonely or needs something. Find the trigger, fix the problem, and you have a better chance of controlling the barking.
Often, dogs simply need more exercise, playtime, and petting. Make certain that you devote regular time for these things in your daily routine. Your dog will feel more confident that it is loved and part of your pack. Remember that dogs are social animals and need time together with you to feel safe. Try these simple barking dog training ideas to solve your problem quickly.
Go to http://www.topdogtrainingbooks.org to get some great dog training books and learn about aggressive dog training and more.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Goligher
For dog training reviews go to:
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Of course, we appreciate when our dog warns us of potential danger by barking. It is actually part of its nature to protect its family. And if its human family has loved it and trained it well, this type of barking only occurs when needed. It is really the other kinds of barking that is unpleasant.
With some dog breeds being known for their vocal abilities it seems unreasonable to expect total silence. We must also be certain why our dog is barking. Usually, they bark to share feelings of fear, loneliness, hunger, or thirst. They will bark loudly when sending warnings. Providing the attention they need, with a good dose of affection may actually slow the barking to a minimum.
You can avoid much of the unnecessary barking by training your pet. Begin by using a firm voice to command it to stop. A single word such as stop or quit spoken with strength works well. Catching its attention is a good step to take when it is out of control. Once you have its attention, wait for it to stop barking, and then praise the dog for stopping, with affection. Praise the pet, and give it a small food treat as a reward. Do these steps with consistency and you may have great success rather quickly.
You really want to avoid shouting back at a barking dog. To the dog, it just sounds like his own barking, and he assumes you are joining his conversation. Keep your voice firm and strong, but do not shout.
Once the dog steps foot in your home, is when its barking training should begin. It matters not whether it is a puppy or an older adopted dog. Take steps to praise quiet, and command barking to stop. Eventually, you will win, as long as you keep repeating your steps with consistency.
All nuisance barking has some kind of trigger. It may be coming from inside your dog. It also might be something in the neighborhood that is frightening or threatening it. Make certain that you learn what the trigger is. A neighborhood bully taunting your pet can be made to stop. Leaving the dog alone all day may prompt it to bark because it is lonely or needs something. Find the trigger, fix the problem, and you have a better chance of controlling the barking.
Often, dogs simply need more exercise, playtime, and petting. Make certain that you devote regular time for these things in your daily routine. Your dog will feel more confident that it is loved and part of your pack. Remember that dogs are social animals and need time together with you to feel safe. Try these simple barking dog training ideas to solve your problem quickly.
Go to http://www.topdogtrainingbooks.org to get some great dog training books and learn about aggressive dog training and more.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Goligher
For dog training reviews go to:
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Thursday, October 14, 2010
8 Tips on How to Train a Dog
Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don't want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.
What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.
Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.
If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.
A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.
You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.
Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".
You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".
Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.
Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.
Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.
Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won't learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.
Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog's attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.
Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.
One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don't fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.
Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog's waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.
These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.
Visit the dog products website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog health, dog grooming & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=K_Brandt
You might like to visit my review site at
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Take care, Derek
What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.
Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.
If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.
A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.
You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.
Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".
You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".
Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.
Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.
Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.
Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won't learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.
Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog's attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.
Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.
One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don't fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.
Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog's waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.
These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.
Visit the dog products website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog health, dog grooming & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=K_Brandt
You might like to visit my review site at
http://derek893.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/
Take care, Derek
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Feeding a Dog - The Good and Bad Foods You Need to Know About
Do you know what you're putting into your dog's dish every day? Here you'll learn about some of the most important things to consider when feeding a dog.
Your dog is a cherished member of your family, so you need to give serious thought to feeding your dog the same quality of food that you would actually eat yourself and feed to your kids.
Feeding a dog the right foods with all of the nutritional value a dog requires to keep him or her in optimal health throughout life is a vital component in determining a dog's behavior and is even instrumental in prolonging it's life.
There are certain things that dogs just shouldn't eat, some of which can make them very sick or even kill them. Eliminating the bad foods and selecting the best foods can be a real challenge, especially with all of the inconsistent information and blatant lies being circulated by pet food manufacturers and their agents.
We hope that providing you with enough valuable information, tips and suggestions on feeding a dog a nutritious diet will make those selections easier for you and the everyday routine of feeding a dog an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.
There are now so many choices available when you shop for dog food it's mind-boggling, so it's perfectly understandable why finding the best ones to buy can be extremely confusing. Should you buy canned food, dry food or semi-moist food? Should you spend a lot of money for premium dog food, or is the cheapest brand okay? Should you buy holistic/organic dog food or should you even make your dog's food yourself. What about the possibility of getting creative with the choices and feeding a dog some combination?
What we just mentioned is only a sample of the many questions and challenges you may encounter when deciding what you should be feeding a dog. If you'd like greater detail and, hopefully, some answers to those questions, stay with us through this article. Also, watch for additional articles, in the near future, where we'll be providing you with much more detailed information on every aspect of providing a healthy and nutritious diet for your dog.
We are not attempting to tell you what the best food choices are for your dog, we are simply offering as much information as we can and listing various options so that you can make your own informed decisions on what foods will provide the highest level of nutrition for your dog. We realize dog nutrition can be a complex topic, so we'll try to break it all down and simplify it for you as much as possible.
Below, we list some important basics you should know if you feed any commercial dog food to your dog. We'll get into greater detail about each of them on our website and blog and in the articles to follow.
So,what's the most important thing?
Quality: You might think selecting a brand of dog food should be as easy as finding one that fits within your budget and one your dog likes. But you need to very careful; there are a great many brands on the market that are made almost entirely of filler and don't have many of the nutrients dogs need. In addition, some of them contain toxic ingredients that can seriously harm your dog.
We realize convenience can be one of the biggest factors in feeding a dog commercial dog foods. If store bought dog food is the primary source of nutrition for your dog, it's very important that it contain all the vitamins and minerals needed by your dog everyday for it's optimal health and longevity.
The biggest difference in all dog foods is in their source of protein. Cheaper dog foods use the very least expensive sources of protein available, some of which will shock and utterly disgust you. Therefore, the quality of the protein in less expensive dog foods, like generic or grocery store labeled brands, is vastly inferior. Even some of the name brands use inferior ingredients...you really need to know what to look for.
There are so many disgusting "protein" ingredients that some commercial dog food manufacturers use, it's not only repulsive, it's outright criminal! Please be sure you know exactly "what" the protein consists of when you're feeding a dog.
Avoid getting inexpensive no-name or store brand dog foods because they are most often produced by bulk manufacturers who use the worst forms of ingredients, and whose actions and lack of ethics are just plain loathsome. Do your best to find a quality dog food to give to your dog.
Be aware that you can be seriously mislead if you only consider the "percentage" of protein that's listed on the label. This does not tell you anything about it's quality, what that protein source is or how well your dog will absorb it. Some dog food manufacturers are very cagey when it comes to listing "percentages"
There are a number of different things you should be looking for if you want to choose high quality food for your dog. You may want to start by comparing the prices and ingredients of various brands of commercial dog food. Start with the premium brands first and then move into the lower quality products. Look for significant differences in where each of the ingredients are listed and what nutritional values each brand contains.
The very best dog foods will list some form of animal meat as their main ingredient on the label or bag. Look for brands that give only the kind of meat used (like chicken, beef, lamb, etc) without adding "by-products", or anything else along with it. This means that the product contains choice pieces of meat and not low quality slaughterhouse waste, known as "4D Meat" or "Downer Meat" (just awful!!!).
What's the next most important thing?
Filler: Corn and wheat (not the kind we eat) are used as filler products and make up a large percentage of the ingredients in many commercial brands of dog food. They provide bulk with hardly any useful nutrients for your dog and are also quite difficult for them to digest.
The brands that utilize fillers as their main ingredient will certainly be a lot cheaper than the higher quality dog foods, but your dog won't get sufficient amounts of the nutrients needed in its daily diet, and that could eventually show up as serious behavioral or health problems.
It could ultimately cost you a lot more, in the long run, because you'll end up with either high dog behaviorist fees or high veterinary bills, or both...so please beware of filler!
What's next?
Variety: Alternating between brands is crucial to your pet's health! (this applies to any and all commercial or homemade diets and recipes!) Do not get in the habit of feeding just one or two dry foods or mixtures of ingredients all the time, day in and day out.
Dog nutrition experts advise dog owners to purchase, or preferably prepare, several different types of high quality foods. They suggest you alternate the foods, giving each one of them to your dog for a given period of time (say for one to three months), so that if one lacks in certain nutrients, the other may make up for it.
If you feed only dry food, you should also consider occasionally feeding wet food to your dog. It's usually much higher in protein than dry food and doesn't contain as much filler. Try mixing some wet food in with the dry food but, be careful not to leave it sit too long because there's a risk of bacteria contamination.
Alternating foods can have valuable health benefits and your dog will probably thank you for it...they love the smell and flavor of wet foods. Just be sure not to overdo it as too much protein can be harmful to dogs...just like "too much of a good thing" can be bad for us!
If you do alternate different foods, be sure keep an eye on your dog's coat, energy level, eating habits, stool, etc. If there are any noticeable changes, it might indicate an allergic reaction to the new food, or it could mean that the food doesn't contain enough protein for your dog's needs.
Every dog has it's own unique energy level and each also gets varying amounts of exercise each day. A good rule of thumb is that the more exercise your dog gets, the more protein it needs to be fit and healthy.
You get what you pay for...
Price: The quality of any dog food is reflected directly in the price you pay. Remember, like everything else in life, you get what you pay for!
Stay away from brands of dog food that are sold exclusively by groomers, veterinarians or pet stores. They tend to be grossly overpriced and the quality can vary greatly because they're manufactured by small companies that do not have the resources to monitor the quality of their ingredients. Lots of harmful things can "slip through the cracks".
They also make hugely exaggerated claims about the ability of their products to cure or prevent every conceivable disease known to dog. They're just not worth the money...there are better and less expensive alternatives to choose from.
If you prefer to feed your dog a commercial dog food, stick with products that meet high nutritional standards and are produced by large companies that you know and can trust. This suggestion does not apply to the special diet dog foods needed to manage specific diseases and sold by veterinarians. Just make sure you know exactly what's in those special diet foods, the same as you would any store bought dog food.
Should I Read Labels?
Labels: The first three ingredients on the label are the most important! A number of experts have offered tips on what to look for on the label of any dog food you consider purchasing when feeding a dog.
The three initial ingredients (the ones listed first) need to be some form of protein, containing one word each like, chicken, turkey or beef (and not "protein by-products" or other plural names!). High protein content is considered to be the most essential ingredient in a healthy dog food product. Again, don't go by just percentages alone, they can be very deceiving!
Those experts also say that you must never purchase dog food that doesn't clearly display the manufacturer's name on the packaging, along with contact information, such as website address and phone number. There should always be a way to contact someone in case anything goes wrong...if not, pass!
Some commercial dog food brands are usually safe for feeding a dog and can offer decent nutritional value, but you need to stay on top of things to make certain your dog is consuming a healthy product. Study labels to ensure the ingredients in any brand you choose are high quality, this will help you avoid any health or behavioral issues. You also need to watch for any recalls, which do happen occasionally.
Also, keep an eye on your dog to make sure the food you're feeding a dog agrees with it and is providing health benefits for it's overall wellness.
What About Homemade Dog Food?
Cooking For Dogs: Homemade diets can be a wonderful choice for feeding a dog, especially after the latest commercial pet foods scare. When you're home-cooking your dog's food you can control the quality of the ingredients that go into each meal, and completely eliminate all of those harmful commercial food additives, colorings and preservatives.
If you think you may want to prepare homemade food for your dog please come back soon and read our forthcoming article on homemade dog food (or visit our website). We will offer loads of information on what's involved in feeding a dog nutritious home cooked food plus some great recipes that are easy to make and will delight your dog.
*Remember to have fresh water available for your dog, at all times! This is especially critical during the summer months when it's hot and your dog can become dehydrated.
Important Notice! Although we are long time dog enthusiasts and dog advocates, we are not veterinarians or professional animal nutritionists. Our purpose is strictly to provide you with information, so that you can make your own decisions. Any and all of the information contained or stated in this article is provided for general information purposes. The information provided is not direct veterinary advice for your dog and should not be construed as such nor substituted for a consultation with a veterinarian or dog nutrition professional. Every dog and situation is different. If you have any concerns about your dog's health, please contact your veterinarian's office immediately. We all love our dogs and want only the very best for them! "In Dogs We Trust"
Anita Boyd has been a "dog person" her entire life and just recently learned that she's been feeding toxic ingredients to her dogs over many years through a commercial dog food that she trusted would nourish them. One of her dogs suffered from severe bladder issues and died at a very early age and the others died far too soon from cancer.
Now that she's learned the awful truth about what's really in some commercial dog foods, she feels compelled to expose the blatant lies that are being perpetuated by pet food companies. She's decided to publicize everything she now knows or will still learn about the disgusting, toxic ingredients we're unknowingly feeding to our trusting dogs.
Here in these articles, on the Dogliciousblogs and Website: http://feedingadog.yolasite.com you'll be provided with some extremely important and highly detailed information related to this subject. She hopes you'll visit her Website: http://www.feedingadog.yolasite.com and Dogliciousblogs. And, please come back here often to read new and informative articles, all about feeding a dog.
"In Dogs We Trust"!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anita_Boyd
Your dog is a cherished member of your family, so you need to give serious thought to feeding your dog the same quality of food that you would actually eat yourself and feed to your kids.
Feeding a dog the right foods with all of the nutritional value a dog requires to keep him or her in optimal health throughout life is a vital component in determining a dog's behavior and is even instrumental in prolonging it's life.
There are certain things that dogs just shouldn't eat, some of which can make them very sick or even kill them. Eliminating the bad foods and selecting the best foods can be a real challenge, especially with all of the inconsistent information and blatant lies being circulated by pet food manufacturers and their agents.
We hope that providing you with enough valuable information, tips and suggestions on feeding a dog a nutritious diet will make those selections easier for you and the everyday routine of feeding a dog an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.
There are now so many choices available when you shop for dog food it's mind-boggling, so it's perfectly understandable why finding the best ones to buy can be extremely confusing. Should you buy canned food, dry food or semi-moist food? Should you spend a lot of money for premium dog food, or is the cheapest brand okay? Should you buy holistic/organic dog food or should you even make your dog's food yourself. What about the possibility of getting creative with the choices and feeding a dog some combination?
What we just mentioned is only a sample of the many questions and challenges you may encounter when deciding what you should be feeding a dog. If you'd like greater detail and, hopefully, some answers to those questions, stay with us through this article. Also, watch for additional articles, in the near future, where we'll be providing you with much more detailed information on every aspect of providing a healthy and nutritious diet for your dog.
We are not attempting to tell you what the best food choices are for your dog, we are simply offering as much information as we can and listing various options so that you can make your own informed decisions on what foods will provide the highest level of nutrition for your dog. We realize dog nutrition can be a complex topic, so we'll try to break it all down and simplify it for you as much as possible.
Below, we list some important basics you should know if you feed any commercial dog food to your dog. We'll get into greater detail about each of them on our website and blog and in the articles to follow.
So,what's the most important thing?
Quality: You might think selecting a brand of dog food should be as easy as finding one that fits within your budget and one your dog likes. But you need to very careful; there are a great many brands on the market that are made almost entirely of filler and don't have many of the nutrients dogs need. In addition, some of them contain toxic ingredients that can seriously harm your dog.
We realize convenience can be one of the biggest factors in feeding a dog commercial dog foods. If store bought dog food is the primary source of nutrition for your dog, it's very important that it contain all the vitamins and minerals needed by your dog everyday for it's optimal health and longevity.
The biggest difference in all dog foods is in their source of protein. Cheaper dog foods use the very least expensive sources of protein available, some of which will shock and utterly disgust you. Therefore, the quality of the protein in less expensive dog foods, like generic or grocery store labeled brands, is vastly inferior. Even some of the name brands use inferior ingredients...you really need to know what to look for.
There are so many disgusting "protein" ingredients that some commercial dog food manufacturers use, it's not only repulsive, it's outright criminal! Please be sure you know exactly "what" the protein consists of when you're feeding a dog.
Avoid getting inexpensive no-name or store brand dog foods because they are most often produced by bulk manufacturers who use the worst forms of ingredients, and whose actions and lack of ethics are just plain loathsome. Do your best to find a quality dog food to give to your dog.
Be aware that you can be seriously mislead if you only consider the "percentage" of protein that's listed on the label. This does not tell you anything about it's quality, what that protein source is or how well your dog will absorb it. Some dog food manufacturers are very cagey when it comes to listing "percentages"
There are a number of different things you should be looking for if you want to choose high quality food for your dog. You may want to start by comparing the prices and ingredients of various brands of commercial dog food. Start with the premium brands first and then move into the lower quality products. Look for significant differences in where each of the ingredients are listed and what nutritional values each brand contains.
The very best dog foods will list some form of animal meat as their main ingredient on the label or bag. Look for brands that give only the kind of meat used (like chicken, beef, lamb, etc) without adding "by-products", or anything else along with it. This means that the product contains choice pieces of meat and not low quality slaughterhouse waste, known as "4D Meat" or "Downer Meat" (just awful!!!).
What's the next most important thing?
Filler: Corn and wheat (not the kind we eat) are used as filler products and make up a large percentage of the ingredients in many commercial brands of dog food. They provide bulk with hardly any useful nutrients for your dog and are also quite difficult for them to digest.
The brands that utilize fillers as their main ingredient will certainly be a lot cheaper than the higher quality dog foods, but your dog won't get sufficient amounts of the nutrients needed in its daily diet, and that could eventually show up as serious behavioral or health problems.
It could ultimately cost you a lot more, in the long run, because you'll end up with either high dog behaviorist fees or high veterinary bills, or both...so please beware of filler!
What's next?
Variety: Alternating between brands is crucial to your pet's health! (this applies to any and all commercial or homemade diets and recipes!) Do not get in the habit of feeding just one or two dry foods or mixtures of ingredients all the time, day in and day out.
Dog nutrition experts advise dog owners to purchase, or preferably prepare, several different types of high quality foods. They suggest you alternate the foods, giving each one of them to your dog for a given period of time (say for one to three months), so that if one lacks in certain nutrients, the other may make up for it.
If you feed only dry food, you should also consider occasionally feeding wet food to your dog. It's usually much higher in protein than dry food and doesn't contain as much filler. Try mixing some wet food in with the dry food but, be careful not to leave it sit too long because there's a risk of bacteria contamination.
Alternating foods can have valuable health benefits and your dog will probably thank you for it...they love the smell and flavor of wet foods. Just be sure not to overdo it as too much protein can be harmful to dogs...just like "too much of a good thing" can be bad for us!
If you do alternate different foods, be sure keep an eye on your dog's coat, energy level, eating habits, stool, etc. If there are any noticeable changes, it might indicate an allergic reaction to the new food, or it could mean that the food doesn't contain enough protein for your dog's needs.
Every dog has it's own unique energy level and each also gets varying amounts of exercise each day. A good rule of thumb is that the more exercise your dog gets, the more protein it needs to be fit and healthy.
You get what you pay for...
Price: The quality of any dog food is reflected directly in the price you pay. Remember, like everything else in life, you get what you pay for!
Stay away from brands of dog food that are sold exclusively by groomers, veterinarians or pet stores. They tend to be grossly overpriced and the quality can vary greatly because they're manufactured by small companies that do not have the resources to monitor the quality of their ingredients. Lots of harmful things can "slip through the cracks".
They also make hugely exaggerated claims about the ability of their products to cure or prevent every conceivable disease known to dog. They're just not worth the money...there are better and less expensive alternatives to choose from.
If you prefer to feed your dog a commercial dog food, stick with products that meet high nutritional standards and are produced by large companies that you know and can trust. This suggestion does not apply to the special diet dog foods needed to manage specific diseases and sold by veterinarians. Just make sure you know exactly what's in those special diet foods, the same as you would any store bought dog food.
Should I Read Labels?
Labels: The first three ingredients on the label are the most important! A number of experts have offered tips on what to look for on the label of any dog food you consider purchasing when feeding a dog.
The three initial ingredients (the ones listed first) need to be some form of protein, containing one word each like, chicken, turkey or beef (and not "protein by-products" or other plural names!). High protein content is considered to be the most essential ingredient in a healthy dog food product. Again, don't go by just percentages alone, they can be very deceiving!
Those experts also say that you must never purchase dog food that doesn't clearly display the manufacturer's name on the packaging, along with contact information, such as website address and phone number. There should always be a way to contact someone in case anything goes wrong...if not, pass!
Some commercial dog food brands are usually safe for feeding a dog and can offer decent nutritional value, but you need to stay on top of things to make certain your dog is consuming a healthy product. Study labels to ensure the ingredients in any brand you choose are high quality, this will help you avoid any health or behavioral issues. You also need to watch for any recalls, which do happen occasionally.
Also, keep an eye on your dog to make sure the food you're feeding a dog agrees with it and is providing health benefits for it's overall wellness.
What About Homemade Dog Food?
Cooking For Dogs: Homemade diets can be a wonderful choice for feeding a dog, especially after the latest commercial pet foods scare. When you're home-cooking your dog's food you can control the quality of the ingredients that go into each meal, and completely eliminate all of those harmful commercial food additives, colorings and preservatives.
If you think you may want to prepare homemade food for your dog please come back soon and read our forthcoming article on homemade dog food (or visit our website). We will offer loads of information on what's involved in feeding a dog nutritious home cooked food plus some great recipes that are easy to make and will delight your dog.
*Remember to have fresh water available for your dog, at all times! This is especially critical during the summer months when it's hot and your dog can become dehydrated.
Important Notice! Although we are long time dog enthusiasts and dog advocates, we are not veterinarians or professional animal nutritionists. Our purpose is strictly to provide you with information, so that you can make your own decisions. Any and all of the information contained or stated in this article is provided for general information purposes. The information provided is not direct veterinary advice for your dog and should not be construed as such nor substituted for a consultation with a veterinarian or dog nutrition professional. Every dog and situation is different. If you have any concerns about your dog's health, please contact your veterinarian's office immediately. We all love our dogs and want only the very best for them! "In Dogs We Trust"
Anita Boyd has been a "dog person" her entire life and just recently learned that she's been feeding toxic ingredients to her dogs over many years through a commercial dog food that she trusted would nourish them. One of her dogs suffered from severe bladder issues and died at a very early age and the others died far too soon from cancer.
Now that she's learned the awful truth about what's really in some commercial dog foods, she feels compelled to expose the blatant lies that are being perpetuated by pet food companies. She's decided to publicize everything she now knows or will still learn about the disgusting, toxic ingredients we're unknowingly feeding to our trusting dogs.
Here in these articles, on the Dogliciousblogs and Website: http://feedingadog.yolasite.com you'll be provided with some extremely important and highly detailed information related to this subject. She hopes you'll visit her Website: http://www.feedingadog.yolasite.com and Dogliciousblogs. And, please come back here often to read new and informative articles, all about feeding a dog.
"In Dogs We Trust"!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anita_Boyd
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Dog Aggression - Understanding Why?
Aggression is one of the main reasons that dogs are euthanised or rehomed; at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggressive behaviour in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type of aggression; most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.
It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.
The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.
1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)
Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.
Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.
Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise
How can you tell if it is fear?
With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.
This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.
This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.
2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)
Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life
Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.
You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.
3. Frustration Aggression
Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.
This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.
As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.
4. Sexual aggression.
This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dog's necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.
5 Territorial Aggression
This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans in this regard as conspecific, and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area. Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden.
The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say "OFF" if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.
6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression
The word dominant is a dirty word in dog behavioural circles at present however if we understand the word means position and is much more complex that just aggression, then to ignore this area of conflict would be remiss. The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tiptoe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life, almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program, which stands for "Nothing in Life is Free", See my website under dominance
7. Chase or Predatory aggression
This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.
One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the trigger . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age.
Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help, however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.
It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment's include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs' perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.
However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.
As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training can also exacerbate the situation. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.
Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program. With all aggression cases, you should consider a behaviourist or a dog trainer experienced in these problems, before the problems becomes life threatening either to the dog or the person they are aggressing against.
Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener)
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine. Stan is also the behavioural consultant for Disney
© Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail: enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.
The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.
1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)
Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.
Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.
Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise
How can you tell if it is fear?
With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.
This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.
This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.
2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)
Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life
Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.
You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.
3. Frustration Aggression
Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.
This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.
As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.
4. Sexual aggression.
This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dog's necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.
5 Territorial Aggression
This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans in this regard as conspecific, and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area. Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden.
The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say "OFF" if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.
6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression
The word dominant is a dirty word in dog behavioural circles at present however if we understand the word means position and is much more complex that just aggression, then to ignore this area of conflict would be remiss. The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tiptoe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life, almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program, which stands for "Nothing in Life is Free", See my website under dominance
7. Chase or Predatory aggression
This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.
One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the trigger . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age.
Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help, however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.
It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment's include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs' perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.
However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.
As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training can also exacerbate the situation. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.
Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program. With all aggression cases, you should consider a behaviourist or a dog trainer experienced in these problems, before the problems becomes life threatening either to the dog or the person they are aggressing against.
Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener)
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine. Stan is also the behavioural consultant for Disney
© Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail: enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
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