A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.
Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.
Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.
If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.
Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.
At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.
How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.
This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.
Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.
Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.
Understand the command.
Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.
All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.
You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.
This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.
How to reprimand
Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.
Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.
It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.
In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!
The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.
When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"
Limits to the extent of training.
It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.
Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.
Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.
Choice of breed to train.
If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort
This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.
A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.
In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.
Training dogs with different temperaments.
In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.
Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.
1.Dog Number One.
The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.
Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.
2. Dog Number two.
The shy, timid dog.
This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.
3. Dog Number three.
The lazy dog.
This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.
Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,
Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.
For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.
Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".
"BLITZ."
With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not
As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!
In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.
He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.
A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!
Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.
There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.
After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.
Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.
Dog number 2. "Flinch"
Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.
This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.
But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.
Dog refuses to budge.
After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.
In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.
As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.
Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.
Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.
There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.
Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.
If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:
This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"
Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.
The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.
Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"
The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.
Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.
One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.
Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.
Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.
The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.
Use the training collar correctly.
Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.
This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.
Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dennis_Fisher
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Dog Kennels
I apologize for not posting any articles the last two weeks but my computer was in for repairs. I hope you enjoy today's article. Derek.
$25,000 Pooch Palace
Dog kennels come in many designs and sizes, from $25,000 'pooch palaces' modelled on the owner's house, to sturdy all-weather structures for a working sheepdog or rescue animal.
The type of dog house you choose depends on climate, the animal's size, if your dog will live there all year round, whether the kennel is to be used for whelping, and if a number of dogs will share the same structure. You will also need to decide whether to buy a kennel ready-made or, if your craftsmanship's up to scratch, obtain or draw plans and build one yourself.
Chaining a Dog to a Kennel
A dog should never be chained to a kennel except for short supervised periods. Dogs are social animals, genetically determined to live as a group. A chained dog may suffer psychological damage, and become highly aggressive. A chained dog does not even make a good guard: a burglar may easily avoid a chained dog but will be disinclined to enter a house containing a free-running animal.
A chained dog, unused to human interaction, is liable to attack anyone without warning: a child wandering nearby, the postman, other animals. When he feels threatened he may attack immediately because the chain prevents the normal fight-flight response: he's forced by the chain to fight.
Dogs may hang themselves on their chains or become tangled and unable to reach food or water. Rescue workers found many dead dogs at the end of chains after Hurricane Katrina.
Kennel Roofing & Ventilation
A peaked kennel roof makes an ideal space for wasps, hornets and other types of insect or animal to build their nests, while a flat roof, with a slight incline to allow rainwater to drain, solves those problems and gives the dog somewhere to lie when it's hot or he's on guard duty. The roof should be removable for ease of cleaning.
A dog house should be raised a few inches above the ground to keep it damp-free and allow air to flow underneath.
Kennel Size
If the kennel is too small your dog will be uncomfortable and may do itself permanent damage if it has nowhere else to sleep. If it's too large he won't be able to heat it with body ambiance and may freeze in cold weather. So measure your dog before buying a kennel and choose one which allows him room to turn round, plus a few inches extra.
If he's a growing dog then your kennel should have removable panels to keep pace with his size. Having control over the size of the internal space is also important if the kennel is to be used for whelping. There should be room for mother and growing puppies, together with space for her to turn round.
Kennel Psychology
A dog is naturally territorial and will feel protective towards his kennel. Children should not be permitted to crawl inside and should be taught to respect the dog when he's using his kennel. However, the owner should remain 'top dog' and exclude the animal periodically from the kennel.
It should be made clear this isn't punishment but, rather, the human owner asserting his legitimate rights over all the dog's territory. Such exclusions can be combined with cleaning and repairs. Once the kennel is ready the dog can be rewarded and allowed re-entry.
A kennel should not be used as punishment. The dog should associate it with safety and comfort, not somewhere he goes when in disgrace.
Multiple Occupancy Kennels
Large kennels are available for more than one dog. If the dogs don't get along then a partitioned design can be chosen so each animal has its own stall.
Conclusion
A well designed and maintained kennel is a must for a working dog which normally will not enter the owner's home. It will protect him from heat and rain, and appeal to his den and territorial instincts. But a house pet may also appreciate a dog house for similar reasons. On hot nights he may prefer to sleep outside, and when the family is in the garden his kennel is somewhere for him to retreat, away from noisy children and younger dogs. Kennels can also be beautiful and a welcome adornment to garden or yard. They represent a traditional aspect of country living and many humans take pride in a well turned-out kennel.
The author is webmaster at Dog Kennels Info
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danican_Philidor
$25,000 Pooch Palace
Dog kennels come in many designs and sizes, from $25,000 'pooch palaces' modelled on the owner's house, to sturdy all-weather structures for a working sheepdog or rescue animal.
The type of dog house you choose depends on climate, the animal's size, if your dog will live there all year round, whether the kennel is to be used for whelping, and if a number of dogs will share the same structure. You will also need to decide whether to buy a kennel ready-made or, if your craftsmanship's up to scratch, obtain or draw plans and build one yourself.
Chaining a Dog to a Kennel
A dog should never be chained to a kennel except for short supervised periods. Dogs are social animals, genetically determined to live as a group. A chained dog may suffer psychological damage, and become highly aggressive. A chained dog does not even make a good guard: a burglar may easily avoid a chained dog but will be disinclined to enter a house containing a free-running animal.
A chained dog, unused to human interaction, is liable to attack anyone without warning: a child wandering nearby, the postman, other animals. When he feels threatened he may attack immediately because the chain prevents the normal fight-flight response: he's forced by the chain to fight.
Dogs may hang themselves on their chains or become tangled and unable to reach food or water. Rescue workers found many dead dogs at the end of chains after Hurricane Katrina.
Kennel Roofing & Ventilation
A peaked kennel roof makes an ideal space for wasps, hornets and other types of insect or animal to build their nests, while a flat roof, with a slight incline to allow rainwater to drain, solves those problems and gives the dog somewhere to lie when it's hot or he's on guard duty. The roof should be removable for ease of cleaning.
A dog house should be raised a few inches above the ground to keep it damp-free and allow air to flow underneath.
Kennel Size
If the kennel is too small your dog will be uncomfortable and may do itself permanent damage if it has nowhere else to sleep. If it's too large he won't be able to heat it with body ambiance and may freeze in cold weather. So measure your dog before buying a kennel and choose one which allows him room to turn round, plus a few inches extra.
If he's a growing dog then your kennel should have removable panels to keep pace with his size. Having control over the size of the internal space is also important if the kennel is to be used for whelping. There should be room for mother and growing puppies, together with space for her to turn round.
Kennel Psychology
A dog is naturally territorial and will feel protective towards his kennel. Children should not be permitted to crawl inside and should be taught to respect the dog when he's using his kennel. However, the owner should remain 'top dog' and exclude the animal periodically from the kennel.
It should be made clear this isn't punishment but, rather, the human owner asserting his legitimate rights over all the dog's territory. Such exclusions can be combined with cleaning and repairs. Once the kennel is ready the dog can be rewarded and allowed re-entry.
A kennel should not be used as punishment. The dog should associate it with safety and comfort, not somewhere he goes when in disgrace.
Multiple Occupancy Kennels
Large kennels are available for more than one dog. If the dogs don't get along then a partitioned design can be chosen so each animal has its own stall.
Conclusion
A well designed and maintained kennel is a must for a working dog which normally will not enter the owner's home. It will protect him from heat and rain, and appeal to his den and territorial instincts. But a house pet may also appreciate a dog house for similar reasons. On hot nights he may prefer to sleep outside, and when the family is in the garden his kennel is somewhere for him to retreat, away from noisy children and younger dogs. Kennels can also be beautiful and a welcome adornment to garden or yard. They represent a traditional aspect of country living and many humans take pride in a well turned-out kennel.
The author is webmaster at Dog Kennels Info
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danican_Philidor
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part two)
TOP TIPS FOR DOGS (part two)
21. Fussy Eating
I am told by countless owners that their dog will not eat dry food or many other types of food and that they will only eat smoked salmon/steak/or best mince etc etc. This is because we actually teach our dogs to be fussy and picky eaters by free feeding. That is leaving down food all day. The dog then comes to the realisation that it can eat at any time and does not fall into a routine. Free feeding can also have an effect on , control complex behaviour also know as "dominant behaviour" though that term is vastly overused it can give the message to a socially mobile dog that he could be a pack leader as he has access to food at any time.
To overcome this decide on how many times you will feed per day. If he is over 1 year then this will be either once or twice. Feed the food of your choice not the food of his choice "I am a firm believer in a quality all in one dry food" If you prefer the more natural diet that is fine as long as you cook the meat "Never Feed Raw" put this down for ten minutes only, if the dog has eaten it in that time fine, if not pick the food up and put it away.
When the next meal is due then only put out amount of food you would normally feed, do not double up. It may take a few days for the message to get home, but it will in the end. Remember the dog's dim and distant ancestor is the Wolf. Which is a feast and famine eater; they sometimes go many days or even longer between kills, so your dog will not starve, instinct and survival will take over and the dog will resume eating the food you choose not the food he chooses. Many people think that it must be boring feeding them the same thing every day. But do not realise that supplementing a quality dry food with tinned or pouch food is like putting tomato sauce on Lobster Thermidor.
I am sorry to say I am not a fan of most tinned or pouched meats and in some cases these are detrimental to the dog's behaviour. We also assume that taste is a factor. It isn't, dogs have only 17% of our taste capacity, lets face it if they can eat there own and other animals faeces which many do, then their choice of taste and quality must be questioned.
22. Recall Problems
How often do you see dogs coming back to about three foot from their owners then skipping away again, as if it's a game, the owners probably in a hurry get angrier and angrier and start shouting, which of course exacerbates the situation? Giving the dog even more reason not to return, as he is aware that he may get smacked.
All this is caused because the owner did not correctly lead train and stimulate the dog in the park in the first place. He/She actually taught the dog not to come back, by only putting the dog back on the lead at the end of the walk. It doesn't take long for the dog to click on that recall and lead mean end of fun and walk.
May I suggest the owners were probably on their mobile phone at the same time? Go to any park and see the dozens of people on mobiles walking their dogs, the poor dogs have to stimulate themselves somehow, and start running off to other dogs and people for the attention that they crave.
Give your dog's quality time and quality training. During the walk call your dog back to you at least three or four times. Place it on a lead and reward with a brief game or a real tasty titbit, and then let it off again. Your dog will then learn that coming back to you is good news and being placed on the lead does not mean the end of the walk and end of play!
Play hide and seek behind trees etc, especially important before the 16 week puppy mark, and as early as is humanly possible. . It doesn't think your hiding it thinks you are getting lost, and will tend to keep a beady eye on you, and by hiding especially at a young age sets up the recall and the need to keep you in sight for life. You can now get their injections so the dog can be fully covered and socialised at 10 weeks rather than 12 and I would strongly recommend this for every new puppy owner The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. So switch off the mobiles and play games, stimulate your dog and he will have no need to wander off and not want to return.
23. Kennel Cough
On top of the Antibiotics from the Vet, Benylin Dry Cough mixture, twice a day will help to relieve the irritation. Also avoid any pressure from a collar, as this will exacerbate the condition. If you must go anywhere with your dog on a lead, use a body harness. Avoid areas where there are other dogs and if visiting your vet, make it the last appointment. Leave your dog in the car and go and tell the vet staff you are outside waiting to go in, or ask to be placed in an isolation room. This will help to reduce the spread of this highly contagious disease.
24. Timidity and Fears
How many times have you seen a dog shaking or cowering and the owner sympathising and reassuring it with petting and nurturing? This may appear to be perfectly logical behaviour, but is actually giving the dog all the wrong signals and rewarding it for being timid and nervous and confirming it has a reason to be fearful, therefore the very thing you are trying to cure is reinforced by your actions. The shy and timid dog should be exposed to as many different situations as possible. Take it along with you to the shops, the bar or the pub, and everywhere you can introduce it to new sights sounds and smells.
Don't push it into fearful situations but gently desensitise it to the things it fears praise for calmness never for fear Consistent treatment in this manner will begin to deliver the message to the dog that there is nothing to fear. Do NOT cuddle the dog, or hug it and tell it there is nothing to fear. Dogs do not understand most of the words we say -- they understand our actions. If the dog gets a hug, it assumes it has done the correct thing and will continue to be fearful.
25. Tag and Identification
It may surprise everyone to know that the maximum fine for not displaying a dog identification tag in the UK is £5000. (Where did they get that figure from?) Irrespective of whether your pet is already micro chipped. The law which is the Control of Dog Order 1992 states that "Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto". I would also recommend you put your mobile number on the disc in case you are away on holiday with the dog; the home number would be useless if your dog then goes missing. You could also add the Vets number in case you cannot be contacted and the vet can keep the dog until you can pick it up.
26. Shy Timid or Frightened Dogs
I am a firm believer that socialisation is so vitally important; it almost outweighs any other consideration including the risk of contracting disease. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.
By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive as an adult. "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related". Owners should strike a commonsense balance: puppies, especially from birth through to 14 weeks must be exposed to a variety of people and experiences. There are many activities and places to take dogs; without endangering their lives, it is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these as possible.
This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.
27. Herbal and Natural Treatments
I am a strong advocate of herbal medicines for dogs especially in areas of Timidity, Fear and Anxiety. The more common and easily obtainable are Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy, (chemist or health food shop, internet) D.A.P Diffuser (internet or vets) and Skullcap and Valerian (health stores chemists internet. These can be especially helpful in situations such as separation anxiety excessive barking and firework and thunder phobias.
28. The Lead
Your lead is the most vital piece of training equipment you can own, it has multiple uses, it is also an aerial to your dog. Tighten it at the wrong time and you can send messages that could spark aggression, fear, or anxiety, use it to drag your dog around and it could damage his neck and spine, especially if it connected to a choke chain which I abhor. Used correctly it can be a godsend almost the only training aid you will ever need.
All training including sit, stay, down, recall, sit stay, wait etc should initially be trained on a lead. Unfortunately most of the leads I see are far too short to be effective and are of a material that hurts and can burn and damage your hands.
The lead should be at least 5 foot long irrespective of the size of the dog, this will help all training and lead work in the future. It should be made of something like Cushion Web which is extremely strong yet very soft, (sounds a bit like a advert for toilet paper) NOT Nylon which is harsh as can burn and damage your hands.
The problem is that most lead manufacturers haven't a clue about dogs and what constitutes a good lead, they just produce what makes the most profit. Good quality leather leads are OK though I find them a bit hard on the hands at first. Shop around till you find what you want, don't be fobbed off with what the industry or pet shop wants you to buy. I have my own specialised Cushion Web leads made for me; you can now buy them direct from my site, it is worth shopping around until you get exactly what you want.
29. Counter Surfing
This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen worktops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.
30. Dogs Ages in Human Terms
If I were to stop 100 people in the street and ask them how do you calculate a dogs age human in human terms 90% would say one dog year to every seven human years the others 9% would probably say they don't know and 15 may know the correct calculation.
This is one of many doggy old wives tales that are totally and utterly wrong. As a general rule of thumb it should be fifteen for the 1st year ten for the 2nd and then five for every year thereafter. This is only an approximation there is a chart that works on size and breed that gives it more accurately than this. If you calculated every seven years and the dog is 16 years old then the dog in human terms would be 112 using my method the dog is a more realistic 95.
I also think we are all aware that a one-year-old dog does not act like a seven-year-old child; it is more like the rebellious teenager round the back of the bike shed having a quick fag. In addition, they are far more aware of the opposite sex than a seven year old would ever be.
31. Firework Aversion
For many dog owners the run up to November 5th is a nightmare. To help alleviate the problem purchase a sounds disc from places like Sounds Scary on the web or pet shops. Do this at least a six weeks before the main firework days for instant November the 5th in the UK or the 4th of July in the States. A DAP Diffuser also can help which is a chemical copy of the pheromone the nursing mother gives out to calm her litter along with herbal calmers such as Dr Bach's Rescue remedy. Using the pheromones and the herbal remedies and a calm base, start playing the disc very softly at first the build up of the volume should be over weeks not hours. Never try to rush this and if the dog shows concern go back a few steps. Never comfort or cuddle an anxious dog (see tip 24)
If initially the dog has just been frightened for the first time by fireworks, you should act very blasé and immediately go outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees, or even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear, this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential future problem immediately.
How this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.
32. Dry and Crusty Nose
adding a teaspoon of flax seed oil to the dog's food daily often helps.. Dry noses and other dry skin complaints respond well to a multivitamin supplement (especially if they include vitamin B complex).
33. Fleas
If you want a natural method of flea control give the dog a clove of garlic in his food each day. You can also purchase granulated garlic from a horse tack shop at a very reasonable price. Fleas hate the taste, which come out in the dog's skin and will soon go looking for a more tasty meal.
34. Ear Mites
if your pet has contracted ear mites, then a simple remedy is to use corn oil to suffocate them place two or three drops of corn oil into its ears (you can use an eye dropper), massage the ear gently then clean our with a cotton ball. Repeat for 3 days. Regular ear bathing with oil is recommended by vets, to avoid a build-up of wax and irritants.
35. Urinary Tract Infections
Mix 30-40ml of cranberry juice into your pet's food. This will boost the acidity of its urine, reduce bacteria and help relieve the discomfort. To ease the pain in fact any pain you can add half a dissolved aspirin or children's liquid analgesic to your pet's food.
This is part two of the Greatest Dog Tips see Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one) for the first 20 tips.
Please rate these tips at the bottom of the page and add your comments thank you
Stan Rawlinson
www.doglistener.co.uk
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
21. Fussy Eating
I am told by countless owners that their dog will not eat dry food or many other types of food and that they will only eat smoked salmon/steak/or best mince etc etc. This is because we actually teach our dogs to be fussy and picky eaters by free feeding. That is leaving down food all day. The dog then comes to the realisation that it can eat at any time and does not fall into a routine. Free feeding can also have an effect on , control complex behaviour also know as "dominant behaviour" though that term is vastly overused it can give the message to a socially mobile dog that he could be a pack leader as he has access to food at any time.
To overcome this decide on how many times you will feed per day. If he is over 1 year then this will be either once or twice. Feed the food of your choice not the food of his choice "I am a firm believer in a quality all in one dry food" If you prefer the more natural diet that is fine as long as you cook the meat "Never Feed Raw" put this down for ten minutes only, if the dog has eaten it in that time fine, if not pick the food up and put it away.
When the next meal is due then only put out amount of food you would normally feed, do not double up. It may take a few days for the message to get home, but it will in the end. Remember the dog's dim and distant ancestor is the Wolf. Which is a feast and famine eater; they sometimes go many days or even longer between kills, so your dog will not starve, instinct and survival will take over and the dog will resume eating the food you choose not the food he chooses. Many people think that it must be boring feeding them the same thing every day. But do not realise that supplementing a quality dry food with tinned or pouch food is like putting tomato sauce on Lobster Thermidor.
I am sorry to say I am not a fan of most tinned or pouched meats and in some cases these are detrimental to the dog's behaviour. We also assume that taste is a factor. It isn't, dogs have only 17% of our taste capacity, lets face it if they can eat there own and other animals faeces which many do, then their choice of taste and quality must be questioned.
22. Recall Problems
How often do you see dogs coming back to about three foot from their owners then skipping away again, as if it's a game, the owners probably in a hurry get angrier and angrier and start shouting, which of course exacerbates the situation? Giving the dog even more reason not to return, as he is aware that he may get smacked.
All this is caused because the owner did not correctly lead train and stimulate the dog in the park in the first place. He/She actually taught the dog not to come back, by only putting the dog back on the lead at the end of the walk. It doesn't take long for the dog to click on that recall and lead mean end of fun and walk.
May I suggest the owners were probably on their mobile phone at the same time? Go to any park and see the dozens of people on mobiles walking their dogs, the poor dogs have to stimulate themselves somehow, and start running off to other dogs and people for the attention that they crave.
Give your dog's quality time and quality training. During the walk call your dog back to you at least three or four times. Place it on a lead and reward with a brief game or a real tasty titbit, and then let it off again. Your dog will then learn that coming back to you is good news and being placed on the lead does not mean the end of the walk and end of play!
Play hide and seek behind trees etc, especially important before the 16 week puppy mark, and as early as is humanly possible. . It doesn't think your hiding it thinks you are getting lost, and will tend to keep a beady eye on you, and by hiding especially at a young age sets up the recall and the need to keep you in sight for life. You can now get their injections so the dog can be fully covered and socialised at 10 weeks rather than 12 and I would strongly recommend this for every new puppy owner The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. So switch off the mobiles and play games, stimulate your dog and he will have no need to wander off and not want to return.
23. Kennel Cough
On top of the Antibiotics from the Vet, Benylin Dry Cough mixture, twice a day will help to relieve the irritation. Also avoid any pressure from a collar, as this will exacerbate the condition. If you must go anywhere with your dog on a lead, use a body harness. Avoid areas where there are other dogs and if visiting your vet, make it the last appointment. Leave your dog in the car and go and tell the vet staff you are outside waiting to go in, or ask to be placed in an isolation room. This will help to reduce the spread of this highly contagious disease.
24. Timidity and Fears
How many times have you seen a dog shaking or cowering and the owner sympathising and reassuring it with petting and nurturing? This may appear to be perfectly logical behaviour, but is actually giving the dog all the wrong signals and rewarding it for being timid and nervous and confirming it has a reason to be fearful, therefore the very thing you are trying to cure is reinforced by your actions. The shy and timid dog should be exposed to as many different situations as possible. Take it along with you to the shops, the bar or the pub, and everywhere you can introduce it to new sights sounds and smells.
Don't push it into fearful situations but gently desensitise it to the things it fears praise for calmness never for fear Consistent treatment in this manner will begin to deliver the message to the dog that there is nothing to fear. Do NOT cuddle the dog, or hug it and tell it there is nothing to fear. Dogs do not understand most of the words we say -- they understand our actions. If the dog gets a hug, it assumes it has done the correct thing and will continue to be fearful.
25. Tag and Identification
It may surprise everyone to know that the maximum fine for not displaying a dog identification tag in the UK is £5000. (Where did they get that figure from?) Irrespective of whether your pet is already micro chipped. The law which is the Control of Dog Order 1992 states that "Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto". I would also recommend you put your mobile number on the disc in case you are away on holiday with the dog; the home number would be useless if your dog then goes missing. You could also add the Vets number in case you cannot be contacted and the vet can keep the dog until you can pick it up.
26. Shy Timid or Frightened Dogs
I am a firm believer that socialisation is so vitally important; it almost outweighs any other consideration including the risk of contracting disease. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.
By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive as an adult. "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related". Owners should strike a commonsense balance: puppies, especially from birth through to 14 weeks must be exposed to a variety of people and experiences. There are many activities and places to take dogs; without endangering their lives, it is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these as possible.
This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.
27. Herbal and Natural Treatments
I am a strong advocate of herbal medicines for dogs especially in areas of Timidity, Fear and Anxiety. The more common and easily obtainable are Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy, (chemist or health food shop, internet) D.A.P Diffuser (internet or vets) and Skullcap and Valerian (health stores chemists internet. These can be especially helpful in situations such as separation anxiety excessive barking and firework and thunder phobias.
28. The Lead
Your lead is the most vital piece of training equipment you can own, it has multiple uses, it is also an aerial to your dog. Tighten it at the wrong time and you can send messages that could spark aggression, fear, or anxiety, use it to drag your dog around and it could damage his neck and spine, especially if it connected to a choke chain which I abhor. Used correctly it can be a godsend almost the only training aid you will ever need.
All training including sit, stay, down, recall, sit stay, wait etc should initially be trained on a lead. Unfortunately most of the leads I see are far too short to be effective and are of a material that hurts and can burn and damage your hands.
The lead should be at least 5 foot long irrespective of the size of the dog, this will help all training and lead work in the future. It should be made of something like Cushion Web which is extremely strong yet very soft, (sounds a bit like a advert for toilet paper) NOT Nylon which is harsh as can burn and damage your hands.
The problem is that most lead manufacturers haven't a clue about dogs and what constitutes a good lead, they just produce what makes the most profit. Good quality leather leads are OK though I find them a bit hard on the hands at first. Shop around till you find what you want, don't be fobbed off with what the industry or pet shop wants you to buy. I have my own specialised Cushion Web leads made for me; you can now buy them direct from my site, it is worth shopping around until you get exactly what you want.
29. Counter Surfing
This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen worktops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.
30. Dogs Ages in Human Terms
If I were to stop 100 people in the street and ask them how do you calculate a dogs age human in human terms 90% would say one dog year to every seven human years the others 9% would probably say they don't know and 15 may know the correct calculation.
This is one of many doggy old wives tales that are totally and utterly wrong. As a general rule of thumb it should be fifteen for the 1st year ten for the 2nd and then five for every year thereafter. This is only an approximation there is a chart that works on size and breed that gives it more accurately than this. If you calculated every seven years and the dog is 16 years old then the dog in human terms would be 112 using my method the dog is a more realistic 95.
I also think we are all aware that a one-year-old dog does not act like a seven-year-old child; it is more like the rebellious teenager round the back of the bike shed having a quick fag. In addition, they are far more aware of the opposite sex than a seven year old would ever be.
31. Firework Aversion
For many dog owners the run up to November 5th is a nightmare. To help alleviate the problem purchase a sounds disc from places like Sounds Scary on the web or pet shops. Do this at least a six weeks before the main firework days for instant November the 5th in the UK or the 4th of July in the States. A DAP Diffuser also can help which is a chemical copy of the pheromone the nursing mother gives out to calm her litter along with herbal calmers such as Dr Bach's Rescue remedy. Using the pheromones and the herbal remedies and a calm base, start playing the disc very softly at first the build up of the volume should be over weeks not hours. Never try to rush this and if the dog shows concern go back a few steps. Never comfort or cuddle an anxious dog (see tip 24)
If initially the dog has just been frightened for the first time by fireworks, you should act very blasé and immediately go outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees, or even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear, this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential future problem immediately.
How this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.
32. Dry and Crusty Nose
adding a teaspoon of flax seed oil to the dog's food daily often helps.. Dry noses and other dry skin complaints respond well to a multivitamin supplement (especially if they include vitamin B complex).
33. Fleas
If you want a natural method of flea control give the dog a clove of garlic in his food each day. You can also purchase granulated garlic from a horse tack shop at a very reasonable price. Fleas hate the taste, which come out in the dog's skin and will soon go looking for a more tasty meal.
34. Ear Mites
if your pet has contracted ear mites, then a simple remedy is to use corn oil to suffocate them place two or three drops of corn oil into its ears (you can use an eye dropper), massage the ear gently then clean our with a cotton ball. Repeat for 3 days. Regular ear bathing with oil is recommended by vets, to avoid a build-up of wax and irritants.
35. Urinary Tract Infections
Mix 30-40ml of cranberry juice into your pet's food. This will boost the acidity of its urine, reduce bacteria and help relieve the discomfort. To ease the pain in fact any pain you can add half a dissolved aspirin or children's liquid analgesic to your pet's food.
This is part two of the Greatest Dog Tips see Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one) for the first 20 tips.
Please rate these tips at the bottom of the page and add your comments thank you
Stan Rawlinson
www.doglistener.co.uk
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
Friday, November 5, 2010
Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one)
I'm posting this article today instead of Sunday as my computer is going in for repairs today. I hope you enjoy the article, Derek.
TOP TIPS FOR YOUR PET(part one)
1. Is Your Dog Regularly Getting the Runs?
Add bio yoghurt to their feed. Quite often this can be a bacterial imbalance. Especially if it is happening on a regular basis. The bio yoghurt normally sorts this sort of problem out fairly quickly.
2. Is Your Dog's Urine Burning the Lawn?
Yellow spots on the lawn are caused because your dog's digestive system is too rich in nitrogen therefore the high levels of nitrogen in the urine causes the lawn spots. Go outside and really look at those burn marks. Notice how the outside edge of the mark actually has really nice, green grass? That is because the nitrogen that burned the grass is too strong but the outer edges of the 'circle' of urine ended up with just enough nitrogen to help instead of hurt.
There are a few things you can do. If you are observant you can water over the spot where the dog has urinated this will dilute the nitrogen and will be beneficial to the lawn. set aside an area the dog can use as a bathroom where you don't care what happens. Fill it with shingle or just leave the grass there to get burned. Teach the dog to go in that one spot. This will take time and patience.
Alternatively a dose of one teaspoon to one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (depending on the size of the dog) per day can correct the pH imbalance and could solve the problem. The apple cider vinegar can be added to the dog's water or put directly on his food. The natural type from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the supermarketTwo tablespoons of tomato juice on the dog's food twice a day will have the same effect.
3. Insect Stings to Dogs or Cats
Slice a raw onion and apply to the sting as soon as possible.If the sting is inside the mouth - Keep "Antihistamine" capsules in your first aid kit. A rapid administration soon after the sting can prevent serious complications. You can also get antihistamine in liquid form which makes it easier to dispense. To administer liquids pull out the jowl near the back teeth it makes a sort of little cup, then just pour the measured liquid in, close mouth, tip head back and massage throat. Some dogs will actually swallow the insect live, which may continue stinging the dog internally and cause anaphylactic shock. In rare cases, death can result. This is caused from internal swelling of the trachea which cuts off the oxygen supply to the lungs. Quick administration of "Antihistamine" can reduce and even prevent serious complications.
SPECIAL NOTE - Dosage will vary depending on the size of the animal. Check with your vet for recommended dosage. Usually they will refer to the animal's weight as a guideline.
4. Sharp Object and Glass eating
What do you do if your dog eats glass or other sharp objects like staples or small nails etc? Dogs even eat ornaments, Xmas decorations, light bulbs and lots of other things that are sharp and therefore dangerous. Here's what to do.
Go to the chemist and buy some cotton balls make sure it is cotton balls and not the cosmetic puff things they are made of manmade fibres. Buy a carton of double cream and keep it in the freezer if in the eventuality of your dog eating something sharp. Defrost the cream and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog.
Dogs less than 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces. Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7.
You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once. Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily. As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass and small sharp objects and wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibres and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage. Your dog's stools will be a bit strange for a few days. You must be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool. If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a check-up, but in most cases, the dogs should be fine
5. Bonding
If you want to quickly bond with a new pup or rescue dog. Masticate a piece of white bread till it is a gooey then feed this as a titbit to the pup/dog for the first 7 days. You only need to do this once a day; it mimics the regurgitation process when pups and cubs are being weaned in the wild, this really makes all the difference and helps them bond more quickly and therefore settle in much sooner.
6. Constipation
If your dog doesn't move his bowels for a day or two, or if he seems to have difficulty doing so, he may be constipated. Give him a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia first thing in the morning, before his breakfast if you feed him twice a day. If he is often constipated, add more vegetables to his diet and also mix a teaspoonful of mineral oil in his dinner. He won't taste it with the food. Do this until he is regular again. Also be sure that he gets plenty of exercise. Lack of running, walking, and jumping can make a dog constipated.
7. Car Sickness
Often Ginger helps with this problem either Ginger Biscuits or even better natural ginger fed before the journey. The biscuits can be fed as the dog gets in the car, which has an added incentive of the dog feeling that it being praised for just getting in the vehicle. Cocculus 6C a homeopathic remedy for travel sickness can also be help especially for a dog that has excessive drooling or has been sick. Give one dose then repeat every 30 minutes for a maximum of 4 doses. Sea Legs can also be helpful the human travel sickness but check with your Vet for how much to administer, though I would imagine if you bought a child's dose it would be fine
8. Grooming
Once a week put a really good shake of Olive Oil "the one you use for salads" into the dogs food, it gives the coat a brilliant shiny healthy look. In conjunction with the oil use a rubber horse curry comb/ brush; you can purchase it cheaply from any tack shop, strips all the dead hair off and shines up the coat better than any other brush on the market. They also do a plastic one that gets all the seeds and bits of debris out. I use both to great affect.
9. Grooming 2
Irrespective of the dogs coat long or short groom daily. Even if it's only for a couple of minutes and make sure you groom over the withers. This helps in bonding and social status. In the wild the Alpha Male and Female will call over the other wolves or wild dogs individually and groom them in their pecking order. Grooming is an important social gesture. That is why some dominant dogs object to being groomed, they don't believe you have right or the position to initiate this action.
10. Tears Stains and Bacterial Infections
Wet areas on the face are a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. Bacterial infections commonly occur in the tear ducts. "Ptirsporum", red yeast bacteria, is at the root of most yeast infections. Tear stains also often occur at the same time as a gum infection or ear infection. Staining can also occur on a dog's paws from licking and around his mouth from infected saliva.
Apple cider vinegar (in its natural form from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the Supermarket) I get mine from horse tack shops. It is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, and deodorant; It helps digestion and to remove tooth tartar; prevents tooth decay and hair loss (even mange), it also prevents and heals gum disease and skin problems; and will discourage fleas.
Putting a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per quart of water in your dog's water bowl or on food can clear up most active yeast infections and prevent future infections. Apple cider vinegar tablets can be used if your dog refuses to drink the treated water or eat the food.
11. Halitosis/Dog Breath
Halitosis, or unpleasant breath, can be caused by a stomach problem, bad teeth or tonsils, or something that is stuck in the dog's mouth or throat. Look your dog's teeth to see if any are decayed. If not, then give him 3/4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in his food twice a day for a few days. If his breath is still offensive, then take him to a vet to see if he needs his teeth cleaned or his tonsils treated.
12. Cuts
If your dog cuts himself slightly, put some boric acid solution or some peroxide on the cut and then leave it alone. You can also buy veterinarian wound powder, the best place to buy this is a horse tack shop it's much cheaper, Clean the cut or abrasion making sure no dirt or debris is left in the wound and puff the powder onto the area and leave it normally heals up fairly quickly. If the cut is deep, or if it doesn't stop bleeding, pack gauze or clean rags around it and take him to a vet. If the cut is on his leg or foot and bleeds a lot, tie a piece of cloth tightly around his leg, between the cut and his body, release the pressure every ten minutes, and take him to a vet at once.
13. Electric Shocks
Once in a while, a silly puppy will chew through an electric cord leading to a lamp or a radio or a toaster. Surprisingly the shock he gets is normally not serious (though in certain circumstances has proved fatal); however it can sometimes be strong enough to knock him out. If this happens, put a little household ammonia on a wad of cotton and hold this under his nose. Don't touch the nose with it, as the ammonia will burn his skin. The sharp odour will bring him round. When he does comes to, give him some cool, strong, black coffee to drink. If his mouth seems burned by the shock, wet a cloth in strong, cool tea and wash the burned place with this. Take him to the vet if he seems burned or injured in any way.
14. What if your dog swallows a dangerous object
It's a rare puppy that doesn't swallow at least one strange object which his stomach can't possibly digest. But a dog's stomach is so constructed that it can usually take care of most of the odd things that find their way into it. If you should see your dog swallow something you know is bad for him . . . a piece of rubber toy, a large nail, a splinter of bone or sharp metallic object . . . here's what to do right away.
Give him a large piece of soft bread to eat. Then toss about two teaspoonfuls of salt on the back of his tongue, close his mouth with your hand and keep it closed until he swallows the salt. Now put him on a newspaper or some other place where he can vomit without doing any damage. In a short time, the salt will cause him to throw up the bread and the strange object. If this doesn't come up the first time give him another dose of salt after about 5 minutes. Once the object is vomited, He should be fine. But if he begins to have diarrhoea, or if his stomach swells up and appears tender when you touch it, give him a tablespoonful of mineral oil. If he still seems to be in pain after a few hours, or if there is any blood in his urine or bowel movement, take him straight to a vet.
15. Eyes
If you want to clean out the "sleep bugs," you can dip a wad of cotton into a mixture of warm water and boric-acid solution 50/50. Squeeze a few drops of this in each eye. You can also use plain warm milk for this purpose. If your pet has got some mild conjunctivitis try warm used tea bags, if the infection is more than mild then purchase some Golden Eye from the chemist (cream not drops) and treat for three days this clears up most infections, however if he still has problems a visit to the Vet is in order. In case of a real injury to the eyes from a dogfight, or something poked into them, put a pad of gauze soaked in boric-acid solution 50/50 ie warm water and boric acid over the eye that's hurt. Then wrap a towel loosely around the dog's head and take him at once to a vet.
16. Commands
Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional.
One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a "bluff." For instance, telling your dog to "Sit, sit, sit, sit!", is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single "Sit" command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.
17. The Dog's Name
Whenever possible, use your dog's name positively, rather than using it in conjunction with a reprimand, warnings or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be positive and responded to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear.
One of best ways to make sure his name is viewed as a positive is to sit the dog between you and your partner or a friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically, cheese, puffed jerky or dried liver is ideal. Get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned.
Some people including myself create a bad dog name so that the dog never hears its real name in any negative situation.
18. Pee Poles
These are very new in the pet shops and are made of hard plastic and look almost like a 1 foot high giant tack. The tack is impregnated with a Pheromone that causes the dogs and bitches to urinate on them. You hammer them in the area you want the dog to urinate and hey presto. Believe it or not it appears to work. These scientists are doing very well with their pheromones, what with the DAP diffuser and now this.
19. Puppy Teething
Most of the teething and chewing as apart from mouthing and nipping starts at about 4.5 months old. This is the time that the little piranha teeth, laughingly called puppy teeth start dropping out, as the new adult teeth start pushing through. It takes anything up to 8 months for these new teeth to set in the jaw, whilst this is happening the pup has a need to chew. To help soothe this and save your fixtures, fittings and furniture. Get the pup a plastic flower pot. Not the thin brittle ones but a fairly thick substantial one, this will help his gums and sooth the itching. Another great help is get a knotted rope you buy as a tug soak it in water and put it in the freezer. The ice that forms really helps hot and itchy gums. Also freeze carrots and whilst frozen give to teething pups a great and nutritious soother.
20. Games of Tug
I don't like games of tug at any time, except with a particularly timid or frightened dog then I will play and let the dog win to build up some confidence. However I never ever play tug with a puppy whilst it has its puppy/piranha teeth. It actually has little or no jaw muscles at this time therefore you can dislocate the jaw or even misalign the teeth by playing roughhouse tug games. You may also be setting the scene for aggressive confrontations later in the puppy's growth cycle by playing this type of game. It would be better playing games of find, hide little bits of treats in the house and garden and encourage the dog to search them out, or ball games these all help dispel some of the pup's energies and to stimulate the mind, rather than stimulate the aggression predatory side of the pup.
See Greatest Dog Tips (part two) for the next fifteen tips
Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
TOP TIPS FOR YOUR PET(part one)
1. Is Your Dog Regularly Getting the Runs?
Add bio yoghurt to their feed. Quite often this can be a bacterial imbalance. Especially if it is happening on a regular basis. The bio yoghurt normally sorts this sort of problem out fairly quickly.
2. Is Your Dog's Urine Burning the Lawn?
Yellow spots on the lawn are caused because your dog's digestive system is too rich in nitrogen therefore the high levels of nitrogen in the urine causes the lawn spots. Go outside and really look at those burn marks. Notice how the outside edge of the mark actually has really nice, green grass? That is because the nitrogen that burned the grass is too strong but the outer edges of the 'circle' of urine ended up with just enough nitrogen to help instead of hurt.
There are a few things you can do. If you are observant you can water over the spot where the dog has urinated this will dilute the nitrogen and will be beneficial to the lawn. set aside an area the dog can use as a bathroom where you don't care what happens. Fill it with shingle or just leave the grass there to get burned. Teach the dog to go in that one spot. This will take time and patience.
Alternatively a dose of one teaspoon to one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (depending on the size of the dog) per day can correct the pH imbalance and could solve the problem. The apple cider vinegar can be added to the dog's water or put directly on his food. The natural type from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the supermarketTwo tablespoons of tomato juice on the dog's food twice a day will have the same effect.
3. Insect Stings to Dogs or Cats
Slice a raw onion and apply to the sting as soon as possible.If the sting is inside the mouth - Keep "Antihistamine" capsules in your first aid kit. A rapid administration soon after the sting can prevent serious complications. You can also get antihistamine in liquid form which makes it easier to dispense. To administer liquids pull out the jowl near the back teeth it makes a sort of little cup, then just pour the measured liquid in, close mouth, tip head back and massage throat. Some dogs will actually swallow the insect live, which may continue stinging the dog internally and cause anaphylactic shock. In rare cases, death can result. This is caused from internal swelling of the trachea which cuts off the oxygen supply to the lungs. Quick administration of "Antihistamine" can reduce and even prevent serious complications.
SPECIAL NOTE - Dosage will vary depending on the size of the animal. Check with your vet for recommended dosage. Usually they will refer to the animal's weight as a guideline.
4. Sharp Object and Glass eating
What do you do if your dog eats glass or other sharp objects like staples or small nails etc? Dogs even eat ornaments, Xmas decorations, light bulbs and lots of other things that are sharp and therefore dangerous. Here's what to do.
Go to the chemist and buy some cotton balls make sure it is cotton balls and not the cosmetic puff things they are made of manmade fibres. Buy a carton of double cream and keep it in the freezer if in the eventuality of your dog eating something sharp. Defrost the cream and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog.
Dogs less than 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces. Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7.
You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once. Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily. As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass and small sharp objects and wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibres and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage. Your dog's stools will be a bit strange for a few days. You must be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool. If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a check-up, but in most cases, the dogs should be fine
5. Bonding
If you want to quickly bond with a new pup or rescue dog. Masticate a piece of white bread till it is a gooey then feed this as a titbit to the pup/dog for the first 7 days. You only need to do this once a day; it mimics the regurgitation process when pups and cubs are being weaned in the wild, this really makes all the difference and helps them bond more quickly and therefore settle in much sooner.
6. Constipation
If your dog doesn't move his bowels for a day or two, or if he seems to have difficulty doing so, he may be constipated. Give him a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia first thing in the morning, before his breakfast if you feed him twice a day. If he is often constipated, add more vegetables to his diet and also mix a teaspoonful of mineral oil in his dinner. He won't taste it with the food. Do this until he is regular again. Also be sure that he gets plenty of exercise. Lack of running, walking, and jumping can make a dog constipated.
7. Car Sickness
Often Ginger helps with this problem either Ginger Biscuits or even better natural ginger fed before the journey. The biscuits can be fed as the dog gets in the car, which has an added incentive of the dog feeling that it being praised for just getting in the vehicle. Cocculus 6C a homeopathic remedy for travel sickness can also be help especially for a dog that has excessive drooling or has been sick. Give one dose then repeat every 30 minutes for a maximum of 4 doses. Sea Legs can also be helpful the human travel sickness but check with your Vet for how much to administer, though I would imagine if you bought a child's dose it would be fine
8. Grooming
Once a week put a really good shake of Olive Oil "the one you use for salads" into the dogs food, it gives the coat a brilliant shiny healthy look. In conjunction with the oil use a rubber horse curry comb/ brush; you can purchase it cheaply from any tack shop, strips all the dead hair off and shines up the coat better than any other brush on the market. They also do a plastic one that gets all the seeds and bits of debris out. I use both to great affect.
9. Grooming 2
Irrespective of the dogs coat long or short groom daily. Even if it's only for a couple of minutes and make sure you groom over the withers. This helps in bonding and social status. In the wild the Alpha Male and Female will call over the other wolves or wild dogs individually and groom them in their pecking order. Grooming is an important social gesture. That is why some dominant dogs object to being groomed, they don't believe you have right or the position to initiate this action.
10. Tears Stains and Bacterial Infections
Wet areas on the face are a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. Bacterial infections commonly occur in the tear ducts. "Ptirsporum", red yeast bacteria, is at the root of most yeast infections. Tear stains also often occur at the same time as a gum infection or ear infection. Staining can also occur on a dog's paws from licking and around his mouth from infected saliva.
Apple cider vinegar (in its natural form from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the Supermarket) I get mine from horse tack shops. It is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, and deodorant; It helps digestion and to remove tooth tartar; prevents tooth decay and hair loss (even mange), it also prevents and heals gum disease and skin problems; and will discourage fleas.
Putting a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per quart of water in your dog's water bowl or on food can clear up most active yeast infections and prevent future infections. Apple cider vinegar tablets can be used if your dog refuses to drink the treated water or eat the food.
11. Halitosis/Dog Breath
Halitosis, or unpleasant breath, can be caused by a stomach problem, bad teeth or tonsils, or something that is stuck in the dog's mouth or throat. Look your dog's teeth to see if any are decayed. If not, then give him 3/4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in his food twice a day for a few days. If his breath is still offensive, then take him to a vet to see if he needs his teeth cleaned or his tonsils treated.
12. Cuts
If your dog cuts himself slightly, put some boric acid solution or some peroxide on the cut and then leave it alone. You can also buy veterinarian wound powder, the best place to buy this is a horse tack shop it's much cheaper, Clean the cut or abrasion making sure no dirt or debris is left in the wound and puff the powder onto the area and leave it normally heals up fairly quickly. If the cut is deep, or if it doesn't stop bleeding, pack gauze or clean rags around it and take him to a vet. If the cut is on his leg or foot and bleeds a lot, tie a piece of cloth tightly around his leg, between the cut and his body, release the pressure every ten minutes, and take him to a vet at once.
13. Electric Shocks
Once in a while, a silly puppy will chew through an electric cord leading to a lamp or a radio or a toaster. Surprisingly the shock he gets is normally not serious (though in certain circumstances has proved fatal); however it can sometimes be strong enough to knock him out. If this happens, put a little household ammonia on a wad of cotton and hold this under his nose. Don't touch the nose with it, as the ammonia will burn his skin. The sharp odour will bring him round. When he does comes to, give him some cool, strong, black coffee to drink. If his mouth seems burned by the shock, wet a cloth in strong, cool tea and wash the burned place with this. Take him to the vet if he seems burned or injured in any way.
14. What if your dog swallows a dangerous object
It's a rare puppy that doesn't swallow at least one strange object which his stomach can't possibly digest. But a dog's stomach is so constructed that it can usually take care of most of the odd things that find their way into it. If you should see your dog swallow something you know is bad for him . . . a piece of rubber toy, a large nail, a splinter of bone or sharp metallic object . . . here's what to do right away.
Give him a large piece of soft bread to eat. Then toss about two teaspoonfuls of salt on the back of his tongue, close his mouth with your hand and keep it closed until he swallows the salt. Now put him on a newspaper or some other place where he can vomit without doing any damage. In a short time, the salt will cause him to throw up the bread and the strange object. If this doesn't come up the first time give him another dose of salt after about 5 minutes. Once the object is vomited, He should be fine. But if he begins to have diarrhoea, or if his stomach swells up and appears tender when you touch it, give him a tablespoonful of mineral oil. If he still seems to be in pain after a few hours, or if there is any blood in his urine or bowel movement, take him straight to a vet.
15. Eyes
If you want to clean out the "sleep bugs," you can dip a wad of cotton into a mixture of warm water and boric-acid solution 50/50. Squeeze a few drops of this in each eye. You can also use plain warm milk for this purpose. If your pet has got some mild conjunctivitis try warm used tea bags, if the infection is more than mild then purchase some Golden Eye from the chemist (cream not drops) and treat for three days this clears up most infections, however if he still has problems a visit to the Vet is in order. In case of a real injury to the eyes from a dogfight, or something poked into them, put a pad of gauze soaked in boric-acid solution 50/50 ie warm water and boric acid over the eye that's hurt. Then wrap a towel loosely around the dog's head and take him at once to a vet.
16. Commands
Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional.
One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a "bluff." For instance, telling your dog to "Sit, sit, sit, sit!", is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single "Sit" command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.
17. The Dog's Name
Whenever possible, use your dog's name positively, rather than using it in conjunction with a reprimand, warnings or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be positive and responded to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear.
One of best ways to make sure his name is viewed as a positive is to sit the dog between you and your partner or a friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically, cheese, puffed jerky or dried liver is ideal. Get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned.
Some people including myself create a bad dog name so that the dog never hears its real name in any negative situation.
18. Pee Poles
These are very new in the pet shops and are made of hard plastic and look almost like a 1 foot high giant tack. The tack is impregnated with a Pheromone that causes the dogs and bitches to urinate on them. You hammer them in the area you want the dog to urinate and hey presto. Believe it or not it appears to work. These scientists are doing very well with their pheromones, what with the DAP diffuser and now this.
19. Puppy Teething
Most of the teething and chewing as apart from mouthing and nipping starts at about 4.5 months old. This is the time that the little piranha teeth, laughingly called puppy teeth start dropping out, as the new adult teeth start pushing through. It takes anything up to 8 months for these new teeth to set in the jaw, whilst this is happening the pup has a need to chew. To help soothe this and save your fixtures, fittings and furniture. Get the pup a plastic flower pot. Not the thin brittle ones but a fairly thick substantial one, this will help his gums and sooth the itching. Another great help is get a knotted rope you buy as a tug soak it in water and put it in the freezer. The ice that forms really helps hot and itchy gums. Also freeze carrots and whilst frozen give to teething pups a great and nutritious soother.
20. Games of Tug
I don't like games of tug at any time, except with a particularly timid or frightened dog then I will play and let the dog win to build up some confidence. However I never ever play tug with a puppy whilst it has its puppy/piranha teeth. It actually has little or no jaw muscles at this time therefore you can dislocate the jaw or even misalign the teeth by playing roughhouse tug games. You may also be setting the scene for aggressive confrontations later in the puppy's growth cycle by playing this type of game. It would be better playing games of find, hide little bits of treats in the house and garden and encourage the dog to search them out, or ball games these all help dispel some of the pup's energies and to stimulate the mind, rather than stimulate the aggression predatory side of the pup.
See Greatest Dog Tips (part two) for the next fifteen tips
Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Is Your Dog Urinating in the House? This Proven Method Will Stop That Behavior Quick
Nothing is more frustrating than having a family member peeing in the middle of your family room. Unless of course it is your brand new baby. But, the family member I am referring to is you best friend, your favorite pooch, your dear doggy. I know from personal experience that this behavior can be real aggravating.
There are two types of issues when your dog urinates in the house. The first problem is indicated by finding large pools of urine. The reason this almost always happens is that one, the dog is not yet potty trained or two, the dog needed to go out and was unable to. The second issue is indicated by finding small amounts of urine in different spots. The reason this happens is because the dog is uncomfortable. We will explore both cases more below.
If your dog isn't potty trained I can refer you to several sources of great information. Many people have written great articles about accomplishing this rather large feat. But, I like this site for some of the easiest methods to House Train a Puppy. The trick to training your dog to do something is to maintain consistency. Create a schedule and adhere to it no matter what.
If your dog is urinating in the house because he/she cannot get outside there are several ways to solve this. First, if your dog comes to you and starts whining, there is a reason. In almost all cases the dog knows he/she should urinate outside. The problem is that he/she cannot get outside. I would recommend listening to your dog and putting it out or installing a doggy door. Implementing these two simple steps should resolve this problem fast. The tricky thing will be to get the dog to know and feel free to use the door. But, with a little patience and persistence your dog can be trained.
The small amounts of urine you are finding in your house; normally on vertical surfaces like door jams, table legs or furniture is a symptom of a dog marking it's territory. So you ask, why does a dog mark it's territory? The simple answer is that your dog is possessive of you, your family and the property it sees on a daily basis. This loyalty can be an extremely strong feeling; especially if you have raised the dog since a pup in the same house. The homeowner will normally encounter this spotting when something new has been introduced to the dog's environment like a new couch or table. A dog will also mark territory when a new dog or other pet is brought into the house. It is best for the pet's health to limit the change he or she encounters. Sites are fantastic for giving you all the dog information you ever need.
The solutions discussed above will assist you in obtaining a happy household where your best friend isn't urinating in the middle of the kitchen or family room. From the instance you implement these fixes, your dog and you will be on much more friendly terms. Don't blame your dog for normal behavior work with him or her to ease change and the negative feelings he or she encounters.
Sarah Patricks has worked in the computer industry for nearly 20 years and is MCSE certified.
Dog Training
slide board
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Patricks
There are two types of issues when your dog urinates in the house. The first problem is indicated by finding large pools of urine. The reason this almost always happens is that one, the dog is not yet potty trained or two, the dog needed to go out and was unable to. The second issue is indicated by finding small amounts of urine in different spots. The reason this happens is because the dog is uncomfortable. We will explore both cases more below.
If your dog isn't potty trained I can refer you to several sources of great information. Many people have written great articles about accomplishing this rather large feat. But, I like this site for some of the easiest methods to House Train a Puppy. The trick to training your dog to do something is to maintain consistency. Create a schedule and adhere to it no matter what.
If your dog is urinating in the house because he/she cannot get outside there are several ways to solve this. First, if your dog comes to you and starts whining, there is a reason. In almost all cases the dog knows he/she should urinate outside. The problem is that he/she cannot get outside. I would recommend listening to your dog and putting it out or installing a doggy door. Implementing these two simple steps should resolve this problem fast. The tricky thing will be to get the dog to know and feel free to use the door. But, with a little patience and persistence your dog can be trained.
The small amounts of urine you are finding in your house; normally on vertical surfaces like door jams, table legs or furniture is a symptom of a dog marking it's territory. So you ask, why does a dog mark it's territory? The simple answer is that your dog is possessive of you, your family and the property it sees on a daily basis. This loyalty can be an extremely strong feeling; especially if you have raised the dog since a pup in the same house. The homeowner will normally encounter this spotting when something new has been introduced to the dog's environment like a new couch or table. A dog will also mark territory when a new dog or other pet is brought into the house. It is best for the pet's health to limit the change he or she encounters. Sites are fantastic for giving you all the dog information you ever need.
The solutions discussed above will assist you in obtaining a happy household where your best friend isn't urinating in the middle of the kitchen or family room. From the instance you implement these fixes, your dog and you will be on much more friendly terms. Don't blame your dog for normal behavior work with him or her to ease change and the negative feelings he or she encounters.
Sarah Patricks has worked in the computer industry for nearly 20 years and is MCSE certified.
Dog Training
slide board
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Patricks
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